From sapling to firewood in 10-12 years

Last week we had to remove two trees from our property.  One came down for natural reasons -- the maple in the backyard was infected with Verticillium wilt.  Rather than watch it die a slow death and spread the infection to the rest of the yard, we had it taken down.  As it turns out, the subdevelopement master plan called for planting a tree along the pathway behind our house so the landscapers positioned it about 8 feet from our maple.  These two trees would have been trying to occupy the same space long before they reached maturity anyway.

The other tree, a Purple Robe Locust, died for reasons that could have been avoided.  We picked this tree off a list of 5-6 at the same time we picked the bathroom tile.  10 years later we learned the hard way that this tree shouldn't have even been on a list in a high-desert neighborhood that requires lawns.  Purple Robe Locust is  drought tolerant. Plant it in a Kentucky Bluegrass lawn (also came with the house), a cool weather grass that requires a lot of water to stay green in 90-110 degree temperatures, and it's a recipe for tree-death.  The tree grew too quickly, lost three major branches in our frequent high-winds, and this year gave up the ghost.  Down it came.  We're looking around for a different tree, but the HOA will have to approve our choice.  More later!

Sick maple?

Tree is taller on the right side than the center!?

Trees - purchasing

According to UNCE (University of Nevada Cooperative Ext.) it is best to purchase trees from nurseries located in regions with similar climates. For Northern Nevada that would mean Eastern Oregon, Eastern Washington, or Idaho.

Peach trees

Apply compost in early spring and again when fruits first form.

See page 94 of Rodale's Fruit for yearly pruning needs.

Cresthaven

Red Haven
Beautiful red-over-yellow fruit, with yellow flesh that’s firm yet melting and delicious. Early season, a favorite in our orchard for eating, canning and freeing. Very productive, needs thinning, has never failed to set a crop for us even in rainy weather. Non-showy flowers. Not for warm winters. (Trees of Antiquity)

Reliance
Best choice for severely cold winters and springs (Trees of Antiquity) --available dwarfed from
Jung Seeds BOUGHT THIS ONE

Harken peach/Lovall rootstock -- This is the best flavored peach in our climate. From Canada, hardy and widely adapted. It is very sweet and bears a regular crop of large freestone peaches. For canning, pick fruit before it is table ripe. Ripens early August. Self fertile. Climate Zones: 5 to 9; pruning required to make it a dwarf

Frost peach -Pumi dwarf rootstock -- A flavorful, yellow fleshed peach good for canning or fresh eating. Semi-freestone. The longest tested curl resistant choice. Ripens mid-August. Self fertile. On the dwarfing pumi select rootstock. Climate Zones: 5 to 9

Mary Jane peach/Pumi dwarf rootstock -- A red skinned, yellow fleshed peach with showy pink flowers and very good flavor, It sets fruit even in frosty springs. It ripens mid August. It is good for fresh eating, drying, canning or freezing, A chance seedling selected by Louie Strahl in Steilacoom, WA. Climate Zones: 5 to 9


Shortest lived of the fruit trees- 10 to 15 years

Prune to an open vase (see Backyard Orchardist); pruning time dependant more on location than other tree types; peach tree pruning typically done in late winter or early spring; prune late (May 4th on my calendar) to allow frost damage assessment of buds and branches; remove wood that was freeze damaged and moderately prune the portion of the tree that still has live wood and buds; or if winter is mild, make thinning out cuts in late winter and possibly a few more after bloom, when the danger for frost damage to the flowers has passed.

Buds typically occur on lateral wood growth from the previous season; fruit buds appear as two plumb surrounding one vegetative bud; peaches and nectarines are typically self fertile; plant a couple of varieties to extent the harvest season

Peach trees produce many more fruit buds than necessary to produce abundant harvest; 10% of buds typically adequate; thin developing peaches about 6 to 8 weeks after bloom if cool, 4 to 6 weeks after bloom if warm.

Each peach needs 35 leaves to support its growth; consider when thinning developing fruits (Cool tidbit).

Split pit caused by insufficient moisture supplied to the developing fruit early in the season, followed by sudden abundant moisture; best remedy is a steady water supply

Light textured, well drained soils; susceptible to nematodes, viruses and bacterial diseases, and cold injury

Clingstone fruit flesh tends to be firm and smooth textured when canned; freestone flesh typically softer and have a slightly stringy texture when canned; no growing or care issues differ between the two types; early ripening varieties tend to be clingstone, while later ripening varieties tend to be freestone

Redhaven ripening date is commonly used as the reference to harvest date; those that mature before and up to a week later than Redhaven are termed early season varieties; midseason varieties mature up to two weeks later than Redhaven; late season varieties follow, ripening up to a month after Redhaven. If catalog provides info that looks like this…Candor (-19)…it means Candor ripens 19 days before Redhaven and would be considered an early season variety.

Winter hardy trees:
Belle of Georgia
Jefferson
Madison
Oldmixon Free
Pocahontas
Raritan Rose
Reliance (Trees of Antiquity)

Winter hardy fruit buds:
Belle of Georgia
Earliglo
McKay
Oldmixon Free
Raritan Rose
Reliance (Trees of Antiquity)

Average years to bearing – 4 years
Average yield per tree – 2 to 2 ½ bushels
Space needed per tree – 15 foot circle
Average mature height – 20 feet
Days from bloom to harvest – 60 to 120 days depending on variety
Pollination requirements – self-fruitful
Most common pruning system – open center
Commonly used rootstock – Halford or Lovell (standard tree)
Common insect pests – Oriental fruit moth, tarnished plant bug, curculio (weevil)
Common diseases – Brown rot, leaf curl, valsa canker, brown rot, bacterial spot
Useful life – 12 years
Number of trees for a family of four – 2 to 3 trees
Bears fruit on one year old wood

Pear trees

Make take as much as eight to ten years before bearing a substantial crop but may produce for up to 100 years.

Train to a modified central leader; once six or seven lateral scaffold branches have developed and the tree is a manageable height, say 10 feet, head the leader off to a strong lateral branch.

Self-unfruitful so need another variety to pollinate. Pear blossoms oddly unattractive to bees.

Bartlett and Seckel will not cross pollinate each other.
Nice to have three varieties for staggered harvest and distinct tastes.

Susceptible to fireblight so it is best to minimize heading back cuts that encourage profuse lateral growth; it is more desirable to encourage side branching by spreading the scaffolds with wooden or plastic spreaders or tying them down with twine. Light annual thinning out cuts can be used to eliminate unwanted shoots. Once the tree starts producing fruit the weight will also help spread the branches.

Pears ripen from the core out so pick when skin begins to change from dull green to yellowish green, then store them under cool conditions (34 degrees), bringing out needed quantities and allowing them to ripen at room temperature.

Newtown Pippin apple

WE BOUGHT THIS ONE!

Dessert, pie, cooking, cider, Ark of Taste, Chez Panisse

Purchase from Michael's Apples on M26 stock (30% to 40% of standard size)

From Michael's Apples - "Newtown, Long Island, New York early 1700’s Ben Franklin had some sent to him in England in 1759, the British loved it and the subsequent demand launched the US fruit export business. A great all around apple including cider. Ripens in October, but is and excellent keeper that develops full sugar and rich flavor when stored until March."

From Trees of Antiquity - "Favorite apple of George Washington. Shape oblate; skin green to yellow, often russeted, sprightly aromatic flavor with refreshing piney tartness. Does well in California and is heat resistant. A great keeper."

Cultivar: Newton Pippin
Family: Rosaceae
Size: Height: 10 ft. to 30 ft.
Width: 10 ft. to 15 ft.
Plant Category: fruits, trees,
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance,
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves, deciduous,
Foliage Color: green,
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, long lasting,
Flower Color: whites,
Tolerances:

Requirements
Bloomtime Range: Mid Spring to Early Summer
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant
Light Range: Full Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 6.5 to 7
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Clay Loam
Water Range: Normal to Normal

Calville Blanc d'Hiver apple

WE BOUGHT THIS ONE!
PLANT IN WARM SHELTERED LOCATION BECAUSE IT BLOOMS IN EARLY SPRING; SUSCEPTIBLE TO INEVITABLE LATE FROST. NEED POLLINATOR THAT BLOOMS EARLY.

Cider, pie, dessert, cooking.
On B9 stock - 6-9 feet (25% to 30% of standard size)
From Michael's Apples - "France; introduced in 1598. Grown for Louis XIII; a favorite of Thomas Jefferson and still served for desert in fine Paris restaurants. Pale green fruit; tender, sweet, spicy, and favorable. More vitamin C than an orange. Excellent keeper that turns yellow and more flavorful with storage. Ripens Oct to Dec. Zone 5."

From Trees of Antiquity - Large, with characteristic ribbed Calvile shape. Sking pale red with a tinge of yellow. Sweet, slight strawberry or vinous flavor; tender, juicy flesh. Good fresh and for baked apples, keeps its form with a smooth creamy texture. Not for cold foggy, climates.


Cultivar: Calville Rouge
Family: Rosaceae

Size: Height: 0 ft. to 30 ft.Width: 0 ft. to 15 ft.
Plant Category: fruits, trees,
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance, round,
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves, deciduous,
Foliage Color: green,
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, single,
Flower Color: whites,
Tolerances:

Requirements
Bloomtime Range: Early Spring to Late Spring
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant
Light Range: Full Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 6.5 to 7
Soil Range: Any
Water Range: Normal to Normal

November tree care

November is the time to harvest fruit, rake leaves from around your trees, spread compost and mulch, and protected your tree trunks with white paint.

Removing fallen fruit and leaf litter also removes insect pest eggs and pupae. Keeping mulch 12 to 18 inches away from the trunk will discourage mice and voles from nesting near and nibbling on the tree trunks.

Now is the time to guard your tree trunks from sun damage. Next time you pass a cherry tree, look at the southwest side of the trunk; most will show a damaged trunk on this side (about 7:00 when looking north). This damage is due to sunscald. When the temperatures in the winter are freezing, the sun heats up the water in the trunk facing the afternoon sun. The bark heats up enough to damage the bark cells; then the quick freeze at nightfall increase the damage.

Michael's November newsletter

Protect your tree by painting the trunk white before winter; off white, oyster, bridal veil, etc will also work. Use interior latex (water-base) paint and dilute 50/50 with water. Paint the lower portion of the trunk under the first set of limbs. Check the younger trees as winter progresses to see if limbs or upper portions of the trunk are being damaged and protect as needed.

I spread composted horse manure around my trees each fall. I then cover with a 2 to 4 inch layer of straw mulch (mostly to keep horse manure compost from coming in the house on my shoes). Leaves (shredded to keep them in place) will also work. The manure feeds the earthworms that keep the soil aerated and permeable and the mulch keeps moisture in the soil.

Sources for compost or horse manure: In the Gardnerville area, try Full Circle Compost north of town for compost. I have seen ads for composted manure in Washoe Valley. Most folks with horses will gladly part with some of their manure—try for someone who has the horses corralled and fed hay, rather than horses out foraging in a weed-infested pasture.

Remember that non-composted manure from cows, sheep, and poultry can be “hot” or high in nitrogen that will burn/damage plants and should not be applied directly. Those ‘green’ manures need ‘brown material’—straw, leaves, paper—added, mixed, and then composted before use. The horse provides the correct green/brown mix at the ‘source’ and can be applied directly, although, if given a choice, I’d use the stuff that’s been sitting around for a few months. And that’s the scoop on the poop.

Be sure to monitor soil moisture throughout the winter. I check soil moisture on the holidays—Thanksgiving, Christmas, MLK day, President’s day, St. Patrick’s day—and then the not-so-festive-and-sometimes-evil Tax Day.

Tree fact sheet

http://www.winrock.org/fnrm/factnet/factpub/factsh.htm

Apple trees

Apple trees benefit from mulberry companionship

Need two different types of apples for successful pollination.

Triploids will not pollinate other varieties or themselves, however they are pollinated by other apple varieties.