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Monday, August 25, 2008
Apple trees - September
Cooler temperatures mean less evaporation and transpiration, so check your soil moisture and adjust watering time/volume.
Some apple varieties are beginning to ripen. A ripe apple will have dark brown to black pips (seeds), comes off the tree easily when slightly twisted, and yields to the pressure of the end of your thumb when squeezed.
Many apple trees are starting to drop of their fruit now. Some are ripe, but many have codling moth damage. Remember, apples that have lain on the ground or in the grass for more than 24 hours may contain bacteria in and on them. Windfall apples are not safe to eat raw or to make cider.
Apples that have fallen and been on the ground for more than a day should be picked up and disposed of as they may still contain the codling moth larvae. The best way to limit future codling moth damage is to remove fallen, damaged apples a soon as possible after they fall. So, rake up those fallen apples a couple of times a week and dispose of them. I will clean up the fallen apples, then check twice daily for windfalls to use for pies.
For those of you who would like to taste different varieties of apples, you might want to plan a trip over the hill to Placerville or Sebastopol. The Sebastopol area has several orchards and roadside stands with Gravensteins (the area specialty) and several other varieties of apples. The Sebastopol crop ripens early but should still have apples now; try http://www.kozlowskifarms.com/ for more info. The town also hosts a cider maker http://www.acecider.com/.
In September and October, join the crowd (hordes on weekends) at Apple Hill near Placerville. Numerous orchards have pies, cider (fresh juice), lunches, and many varieties of apples. The larger places stand out, but try some of the smaller growers on the back roads. If you’re able to get away on a weekday, you will avoid the crowds, but Apple Hill is a worthwhile trip even on a Saturday or Sunday. Be sure to try an Arkansas Black, a Mutsu, and an Esopus Spitzenburg. For more info, go to http://www.applehill.com/.
For those readers who have lawns, fertilize in mid September to help grass promote root growth for the winter.
Some apple varieties are beginning to ripen. A ripe apple will have dark brown to black pips (seeds), comes off the tree easily when slightly twisted, and yields to the pressure of the end of your thumb when squeezed.
Many apple trees are starting to drop of their fruit now. Some are ripe, but many have codling moth damage. Remember, apples that have lain on the ground or in the grass for more than 24 hours may contain bacteria in and on them. Windfall apples are not safe to eat raw or to make cider.
Apples that have fallen and been on the ground for more than a day should be picked up and disposed of as they may still contain the codling moth larvae. The best way to limit future codling moth damage is to remove fallen, damaged apples a soon as possible after they fall. So, rake up those fallen apples a couple of times a week and dispose of them. I will clean up the fallen apples, then check twice daily for windfalls to use for pies.
For those of you who would like to taste different varieties of apples, you might want to plan a trip over the hill to Placerville or Sebastopol. The Sebastopol area has several orchards and roadside stands with Gravensteins (the area specialty) and several other varieties of apples. The Sebastopol crop ripens early but should still have apples now; try http://www.kozlowskifarms.com/ for more info. The town also hosts a cider maker http://www.acecider.com/.
In September and October, join the crowd (hordes on weekends) at Apple Hill near Placerville. Numerous orchards have pies, cider (fresh juice), lunches, and many varieties of apples. The larger places stand out, but try some of the smaller growers on the back roads. If you’re able to get away on a weekday, you will avoid the crowds, but Apple Hill is a worthwhile trip even on a Saturday or Sunday. Be sure to try an Arkansas Black, a Mutsu, and an Esopus Spitzenburg. For more info, go to http://www.applehill.com/.
For those readers who have lawns, fertilize in mid September to help grass promote root growth for the winter.
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Local graywater regulations
Washoe County - www.co.washoe.nv.us/health/ehs/regulations.html and click on Sewage, Wastewater and Sanitation. Page 66
Late blooming wildlife friendly plants
From National Wildlife Federation August 2008 newsletter:
Hummingbird trumpet (also known as California fuchsia): “They’re not neat and tidy plants, but hummingbirds love them,” says Barbara Fick, an Oregon State University extension horticulturist. The orange-red tubular flowers of this perennial, Epilobium canum, look especially attractive sprawling across slopes. Fick says these fuchsias, which are native from Oregon south to California and New Mexico, are drought tolerant.
Blazing stars: “Hands down, these are among the best nectar sources for butterflies,” says Bob Hendrickson, the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum’s assistant director of horticulture programs. About 40 species of blazing star, also known as gayfeather and by the genus name of Liatris, are native to the midwestern and eastern United States; several of them flower in autumn. “Dotted gayfeather is one of the last to bloom,” says Hendrickson, who also recommends rough gayfeather. Southern blazing star is another late performer.
Hummingbird trumpet (also known as California fuchsia): “They’re not neat and tidy plants, but hummingbirds love them,” says Barbara Fick, an Oregon State University extension horticulturist. The orange-red tubular flowers of this perennial, Epilobium canum, look especially attractive sprawling across slopes. Fick says these fuchsias, which are native from Oregon south to California and New Mexico, are drought tolerant.
Blazing stars: “Hands down, these are among the best nectar sources for butterflies,” says Bob Hendrickson, the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum’s assistant director of horticulture programs. About 40 species of blazing star, also known as gayfeather and by the genus name of Liatris, are native to the midwestern and eastern United States; several of them flower in autumn. “Dotted gayfeather is one of the last to bloom,” says Hendrickson, who also recommends rough gayfeather. Southern blazing star is another late performer.
Friday, August 8, 2008
Monday, August 4, 2008
Find average first frost and when to plant fall veggies
Know When to Plant What: Find Your Average First Fall Frost Date
7/30/2008 8:04:48 AM
By Barbara Pleasant
Tags: first fall frost, fall harvest crops, fall gardens, autumn harvests
To determine your optimum dates for sowing fall crops, add three weeks to the days to maturity ratings listed below or shown on your seed packs to compensate for days that are getting shorter. Then count back from your average first fall frost date to find the date you should sow each crop. (To find your average first fall frost date, search by state in the tables provided by the National Climatic Data Center.) Cool-season plants will continue to grow a little after nights turn chilly, but they will make most of their new growth early on, while the weather is still warm.
Many of the best crops of fall — including salad greens and various cabbage cousins — will refuse to germinate in soil warmer than 85 degrees, so the seeds are best started indoors (on a 90-degree day, surface soil temperatures may actually be 110 degrees or more). The procedure for growing seedlings is the same as in spring (see Seed Starting Basics), but care for transplanted seedlings requires some extra hardware. Insect pressure in late summer is severe, so use homemade or purchased lightweight row covers to exclude critters. (See The No-Spray Way to Protect Plants) It helps to shade each seedling with a light-colored flowerpot, pail or other cover for two to three days after transplanting. Protected from scorching sun, the seedlings can concentrate on growing reliable roots.
Cabbage and broccoli seedlings need to be planted at least eight weeks before the first fall frost, and as long as their roots are kept moist, they seem to benefit from a spell of hot weather as late summer days become shorter. When set out so late that they miss the last warm spells, cabbage cousins tend to stop growing too soon. Whether you’re working with seedlings you grew yourself or bought at a store, get them in the ground as soon as you can.
FALL HARVEST CROPS
Days to Maturity
beets 55 to 60
broccoli 70 to 80
Brussels sprouts 90 to 100
cauliflower 55 to 65
cabbage 70 to 80
carrots 85 to 95
Chinese cabbage 75 to 85
cilantro 50 to 55 (leaf); 90 to 105 (coriander seed)
collard greens 60 to 100
daikon radishes 60 to 75
green beans 50 to 60
green onions 50 to 60
kale 40 to 50
kohlrabi 50 to 60
leeks 100 to 120
lettuce (leaf) 40 to 50
lettuce (head) 70 to 85
mustard greens 30 to 40
onions (seeds) 130 to 150
onions (sets) 60 to 80
peas 50 to 60
radishes 25 to 30
rutabaga 70 to 80
spinach 50 to 60
Swiss chard 30 to 50
turnips 55 to 60
Article from Mother Earth News August 2008
7/30/2008 8:04:48 AM
By Barbara Pleasant
Tags: first fall frost, fall harvest crops, fall gardens, autumn harvests
To determine your optimum dates for sowing fall crops, add three weeks to the days to maturity ratings listed below or shown on your seed packs to compensate for days that are getting shorter. Then count back from your average first fall frost date to find the date you should sow each crop. (To find your average first fall frost date, search by state in the tables provided by the National Climatic Data Center.) Cool-season plants will continue to grow a little after nights turn chilly, but they will make most of their new growth early on, while the weather is still warm.
Many of the best crops of fall — including salad greens and various cabbage cousins — will refuse to germinate in soil warmer than 85 degrees, so the seeds are best started indoors (on a 90-degree day, surface soil temperatures may actually be 110 degrees or more). The procedure for growing seedlings is the same as in spring (see Seed Starting Basics), but care for transplanted seedlings requires some extra hardware. Insect pressure in late summer is severe, so use homemade or purchased lightweight row covers to exclude critters. (See The No-Spray Way to Protect Plants) It helps to shade each seedling with a light-colored flowerpot, pail or other cover for two to three days after transplanting. Protected from scorching sun, the seedlings can concentrate on growing reliable roots.
Cabbage and broccoli seedlings need to be planted at least eight weeks before the first fall frost, and as long as their roots are kept moist, they seem to benefit from a spell of hot weather as late summer days become shorter. When set out so late that they miss the last warm spells, cabbage cousins tend to stop growing too soon. Whether you’re working with seedlings you grew yourself or bought at a store, get them in the ground as soon as you can.
FALL HARVEST CROPS
Days to Maturity
beets 55 to 60
broccoli 70 to 80
Brussels sprouts 90 to 100
cauliflower 55 to 65
cabbage 70 to 80
carrots 85 to 95
Chinese cabbage 75 to 85
cilantro 50 to 55 (leaf); 90 to 105 (coriander seed)
collard greens 60 to 100
daikon radishes 60 to 75
green beans 50 to 60
green onions 50 to 60
kale 40 to 50
kohlrabi 50 to 60
leeks 100 to 120
lettuce (leaf) 40 to 50
lettuce (head) 70 to 85
mustard greens 30 to 40
onions (seeds) 130 to 150
onions (sets) 60 to 80
peas 50 to 60
radishes 25 to 30
rutabaga 70 to 80
spinach 50 to 60
Swiss chard 30 to 50
turnips 55 to 60
Article from Mother Earth News August 2008
Fruit tree care - August
August Tree Care 2008
August is the time to check for pear sawfly (cherry slug) damage, ground falls, and dry soil.
If you have cherry trees, you will want to check for pear sawfly larvae damage. Although a pest of all fruit trees, cherry trees seem to be especially susceptible in northern Nevada. Examine the leaves on your cherry tree for leaf damage evidenced by the upper surface of the leaf is gone leaving only the brown skeletal veins. Then look on the leaves for a small (3/8 inch long and 1/8 inch wide), slimy, dark brown to black, little slug—the larva of the pear sawfly (a small wasp).
If the damage is extensive (more than 20 % of the leaves effected) and the larvae are still present, take action. I generally will spray with Sevin. Organic methods include picking them off by hand (yuck) or sprayed off with a water hose. If unchecked, the larvae will strip the leaves on a large portion of the tree and severely damage the tree if not kill it.
I have noticed apples dropping off trees early this year; these are called ground falls. Most of the apples that fall off the trees before they are ripe do so because of codling moth damage or watering problems. Ground falls should be removed and disposed of as soon as possible as they may still contain codling moth larvae or pupae. If the apples have been on the ground more than 24 hours, do not consume them as (harmful) bacteria have likely started to bloom in them. If you have ground falls, clean up under the tree and dispose of the damaged apples. Then, each day, pick up the falls in the morning and evening; when you have enough for a pie, cut out the damaged portions and use.
Check your soil moisture by digging a small hole just beyond the drip line of the tree; the soil should be moist but not soggy. If the soil is hard and dry, increase watering. You will also want to check the moisture in your garden and yard as well.
Now is the time to apply Bt to tomatoes to kill the tomato hornworm before one eats one of your tomato plants for dinner. Buy a small container; it goes a long way. I mix and apply with a sprinkler can.
Michael
8/3/08
