Some are ripe in late September, watch for more in October. Used some to make apple/quince jelly yesterday. Pretty!
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4 years ago
Monday, September 29, 2008
Apple tree care -- October
OCTOBER TREE CARE 200
October is the time to check and cut back on watering and to start preparing the trees for the winter. Check the moisture of the soil just outside the drip line of the tree (to avoid root damage). Soil should be moist, but not wet. Test by digging a small hole about 6 “deep and take a small amount of soil from the lower part of the hole. Squeeze the sample in your hand; if the soil breaks apart slightly when you release the pressure, the soil is just right. If you have a solid mud ball, cut back on watering.
Be sure to pick up and discard any fallen fruit to remove insect eggs and larvae in the fruit. Rake the mulch, leaves, and other debris away from the trunk; leave about a foot of clear space for young trees and 18 to 24 inches for older trees.
Many varieties of apples ripen in October. Apples are ripe when the pips (seeds) are dark brown to black. To properly pick, twist the apple and lift; it should come off easily in your hand. Don’t jerk the fruit as it will damage or break off the fruiting spur. Some apples need to be eaten immediately or they will get soft and mushy. Many late varieties, however, will keep crisp and well into the winter. Try storing your apples in a paper bag, box, or breathable plastic to let them ripen and develop more flavor. I put mine in my unheated, un-insulated garage last year; some, like Honeycrisp and Newtown Pippin were crisp and firm (and very flavorful) in March (when I ate the last one. Also, don’t worry about picking before the first frost. The apples will not be damaged by a frost that kills the tomatoes and the flavor of those apples may be further developed and enhanced—ditto with carrots.
For folks who have seen rabbits, moles, voles, gophers, etc in their yards, you will want to put on a plastic tree guard or a wire guard (like ¼ inch hardware cloth) around the trunk. These are just for the winter and need to be removed in the spring. (If not removed in May, earwigs will nest inside the plastic and the tree will grow into the wire). You will also want to trap or otherwise eradicate these pests that eat the bark and or roots this winter.
Hope you are all enjoying the fall.
Michael
9/27/08
October is the time to check and cut back on watering and to start preparing the trees for the winter. Check the moisture of the soil just outside the drip line of the tree (to avoid root damage). Soil should be moist, but not wet. Test by digging a small hole about 6 “deep and take a small amount of soil from the lower part of the hole. Squeeze the sample in your hand; if the soil breaks apart slightly when you release the pressure, the soil is just right. If you have a solid mud ball, cut back on watering.
Be sure to pick up and discard any fallen fruit to remove insect eggs and larvae in the fruit. Rake the mulch, leaves, and other debris away from the trunk; leave about a foot of clear space for young trees and 18 to 24 inches for older trees.
Many varieties of apples ripen in October. Apples are ripe when the pips (seeds) are dark brown to black. To properly pick, twist the apple and lift; it should come off easily in your hand. Don’t jerk the fruit as it will damage or break off the fruiting spur. Some apples need to be eaten immediately or they will get soft and mushy. Many late varieties, however, will keep crisp and well into the winter. Try storing your apples in a paper bag, box, or breathable plastic to let them ripen and develop more flavor. I put mine in my unheated, un-insulated garage last year; some, like Honeycrisp and Newtown Pippin were crisp and firm (and very flavorful) in March (when I ate the last one. Also, don’t worry about picking before the first frost. The apples will not be damaged by a frost that kills the tomatoes and the flavor of those apples may be further developed and enhanced—ditto with carrots.
For folks who have seen rabbits, moles, voles, gophers, etc in their yards, you will want to put on a plastic tree guard or a wire guard (like ¼ inch hardware cloth) around the trunk. These are just for the winter and need to be removed in the spring. (If not removed in May, earwigs will nest inside the plastic and the tree will grow into the wire). You will also want to trap or otherwise eradicate these pests that eat the bark and or roots this winter.
Hope you are all enjoying the fall.
Michael
9/27/08
Friday, September 26, 2008
Desert Land Act - youtube reply
Inspirational to say the least.
In the US the government declared, in 1877, that certain states with desert lands must distribute up to 640 acres per person or group for the purpose of reclaiming the desert. Several states were enlisted into this program and must distribute 1 million acres per state. Most of the people simply made watering holes and kept livestock or farmed it for a short period of time until they could prove they properly irrigated it then sold the land. It’s disgusting but so many entrepreneurs have cheated the system so far. Corporations had to be excluded because of it.
At any rate if it can work in Jordan it could Work in Arizona or Nevada and the land, if you prove you can irrigate it and reclaim at least 1/8th of it in 4 years time, can be purchased for $1.25 per acre up to 320 acres. The downfall is you have to jump through some hoops to find the right piece of land. With permaculture I think that this could be very beneficial for the land and very profitable for the farmer.
Co-op’s, especially, can benefit from this and in Nevada you don’t have to be a resident to claim land via the Desert Land Act.
Comment by Robert — August 26, 2008 @ 9:02 am
In the US the government declared, in 1877, that certain states with desert lands must distribute up to 640 acres per person or group for the purpose of reclaiming the desert. Several states were enlisted into this program and must distribute 1 million acres per state. Most of the people simply made watering holes and kept livestock or farmed it for a short period of time until they could prove they properly irrigated it then sold the land. It’s disgusting but so many entrepreneurs have cheated the system so far. Corporations had to be excluded because of it.
At any rate if it can work in Jordan it could Work in Arizona or Nevada and the land, if you prove you can irrigate it and reclaim at least 1/8th of it in 4 years time, can be purchased for $1.25 per acre up to 320 acres. The downfall is you have to jump through some hoops to find the right piece of land. With permaculture I think that this could be very beneficial for the land and very profitable for the farmer.
Co-op’s, especially, can benefit from this and in Nevada you don’t have to be a resident to claim land via the Desert Land Act.
Comment by Robert — August 26, 2008 @ 9:02 am
Monday, September 22, 2008
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Melons - how to tell they're ready to harvest
MelonsWhen trying to determine a melon’s ripeness, look at the condition of the stem and skin color. Cantaloupes “slip” from the vine, leaving a scar where the stem was attached. The bottom, or end opposite the stem, will be soft and fragrant. Their straw-colored skin should be bright. A ripe honeydew may remain attached to the vine, but should also be soft on the bottom side, opposite the stem. While on the vine, watermelons will have a small, curled tendril extending from the vine opposite from where the stem is attached to the vine. This tendril will turn brown and dry out when the melon is ripe. The stem should still be green and difficult to remove from the vine. The skin touching the ground should be buttery yellow. All melons continue to ripen after they have been removed from the vine, and should be stored in the refrigerator or a cool place.
From an article by Leslie Allen, Aug. 16 for Aug. 23, 2007 publication in the Reno Gazette-Journal
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
How to tell a melon is ready to harvest
Watermelon is ready to harvest when:"the small leaf and curlyque located at the top of the stem is dry"
"The underside of the fruit that makes contact with the ground turns from white to buttery yellow"
"Thump the watermelon - "ping" is unripe, "pong" is ripe, dull "thud" is too late.
2008 watermelons imature in September. Start 6-8 weeks before last frost -- mid-April to early May
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
Delane's codling moth bug juice recipe
Bug juice recipe
1/3 cup molasses
1 cup apple cider
1/8 tsp ammonia
Enough water to make 1 ½ qt
Mix all together. Cut recycled bottle to create large opening in side of the bottle, leaving enough wall to make about 1 ½ inch well to contain juice. Fill about ½ inch full, then hang the bottle in the tree. One bottle per tree.
Meets organic standards
1/3 cup molasses
1 cup apple cider
1/8 tsp ammonia
Enough water to make 1 ½ qt
Mix all together. Cut recycled bottle to create large opening in side of the bottle, leaving enough wall to make about 1 ½ inch well to contain juice. Fill about ½ inch full, then hang the bottle in the tree. One bottle per tree.
Meets organic standards
