Grape vine - mystery grape

Grape vine early summer '08 Grape vine September '08

Ours is a gift from Leslie--don't know what variety
Two basic classes of table grapes. European varieties have tight skins wine-like flavors, high heat requirements for ripening, and are the most common grapes grown in California. Use fresh, dried, or for juices or wine.

Susceptible to powdery mildew, they require regular dusting or spraying with sulfur or other mildew control. American varieties have Concord-like flavor, moderate heat requirements, and are late blooming and resistant to powdery mildew. Both classes may grow successfully in very warm sites at lower elevations, require deep moderately fertile soils and regular pruning for high quality and production; self fertile.

Perlette - through zone 6; approx harvest date July; American; crisp pale green berry; larger; two weeks earlier, requires less heat to ripen than Thompson

Keep soil on the dryer side after plant has been established (1 or 2 years); apply compost in early spring.

Remove weak fruit clusters while fruit is still small and hard; pinch off the leaves near and surrounding the clusters.

Shriveled fruits are called "mummies".

Peach trees

Apply compost in early spring and again when fruits first form.

See page 94 of Rodale's Fruit for yearly pruning needs.

Cresthaven

Red Haven
Beautiful red-over-yellow fruit, with yellow flesh that’s firm yet melting and delicious. Early season, a favorite in our orchard for eating, canning and freeing. Very productive, needs thinning, has never failed to set a crop for us even in rainy weather. Non-showy flowers. Not for warm winters. (Trees of Antiquity)

Reliance
Best choice for severely cold winters and springs (Trees of Antiquity) --available dwarfed from
Jung Seeds BOUGHT THIS ONE

Harken peach/Lovall rootstock -- This is the best flavored peach in our climate. From Canada, hardy and widely adapted. It is very sweet and bears a regular crop of large freestone peaches. For canning, pick fruit before it is table ripe. Ripens early August. Self fertile. Climate Zones: 5 to 9; pruning required to make it a dwarf

Frost peach -Pumi dwarf rootstock -- A flavorful, yellow fleshed peach good for canning or fresh eating. Semi-freestone. The longest tested curl resistant choice. Ripens mid-August. Self fertile. On the dwarfing pumi select rootstock. Climate Zones: 5 to 9

Mary Jane peach/Pumi dwarf rootstock -- A red skinned, yellow fleshed peach with showy pink flowers and very good flavor, It sets fruit even in frosty springs. It ripens mid August. It is good for fresh eating, drying, canning or freezing, A chance seedling selected by Louie Strahl in Steilacoom, WA. Climate Zones: 5 to 9


Shortest lived of the fruit trees- 10 to 15 years

Prune to an open vase (see Backyard Orchardist); pruning time dependant more on location than other tree types; peach tree pruning typically done in late winter or early spring; prune late (May 4th on my calendar) to allow frost damage assessment of buds and branches; remove wood that was freeze damaged and moderately prune the portion of the tree that still has live wood and buds; or if winter is mild, make thinning out cuts in late winter and possibly a few more after bloom, when the danger for frost damage to the flowers has passed.

Buds typically occur on lateral wood growth from the previous season; fruit buds appear as two plumb surrounding one vegetative bud; peaches and nectarines are typically self fertile; plant a couple of varieties to extent the harvest season

Peach trees produce many more fruit buds than necessary to produce abundant harvest; 10% of buds typically adequate; thin developing peaches about 6 to 8 weeks after bloom if cool, 4 to 6 weeks after bloom if warm.

Each peach needs 35 leaves to support its growth; consider when thinning developing fruits (Cool tidbit).

Split pit caused by insufficient moisture supplied to the developing fruit early in the season, followed by sudden abundant moisture; best remedy is a steady water supply

Light textured, well drained soils; susceptible to nematodes, viruses and bacterial diseases, and cold injury

Clingstone fruit flesh tends to be firm and smooth textured when canned; freestone flesh typically softer and have a slightly stringy texture when canned; no growing or care issues differ between the two types; early ripening varieties tend to be clingstone, while later ripening varieties tend to be freestone

Redhaven ripening date is commonly used as the reference to harvest date; those that mature before and up to a week later than Redhaven are termed early season varieties; midseason varieties mature up to two weeks later than Redhaven; late season varieties follow, ripening up to a month after Redhaven. If catalog provides info that looks like this…Candor (-19)…it means Candor ripens 19 days before Redhaven and would be considered an early season variety.

Winter hardy trees:
Belle of Georgia
Jefferson
Madison
Oldmixon Free
Pocahontas
Raritan Rose
Reliance (Trees of Antiquity)

Winter hardy fruit buds:
Belle of Georgia
Earliglo
McKay
Oldmixon Free
Raritan Rose
Reliance (Trees of Antiquity)

Average years to bearing – 4 years
Average yield per tree – 2 to 2 ½ bushels
Space needed per tree – 15 foot circle
Average mature height – 20 feet
Days from bloom to harvest – 60 to 120 days depending on variety
Pollination requirements – self-fruitful
Most common pruning system – open center
Commonly used rootstock – Halford or Lovell (standard tree)
Common insect pests – Oriental fruit moth, tarnished plant bug, curculio (weevil)
Common diseases – Brown rot, leaf curl, valsa canker, brown rot, bacterial spot
Useful life – 12 years
Number of trees for a family of four – 2 to 3 trees
Bears fruit on one year old wood

Plum trees

This Green Gage Bavays plum looks really interesting – consider!

Apricot trees

WE ORDERED (arrived bare root on 2/16/09) :

*Genetic dwarf apricot named 15MA522 (icky), compact tree, estimated required 600 chill hours,

*Nemaguard peach rootstock, vigorous, resistant to root-knot nematode, unpruned tree height of standard varieties 15-25 ft, but trees on this stock can be held to any height with summer pruning.

*Will plant in a used 1/2 wine barrel purchased at Raley's.

Apricots more closely related to plums than peaches; most are self-fertile

Fruit buds are normally produced on spurs that fruit for two to four years and on the tips of last season’s shoot growth; pruning has been shown to be the best way to reduce competition among excess fruit.

Apricot trees are large and sturdy; fruit buds similar in hardiness to peach but quite susceptible to drying by cold winter winds, consequently apricots produce best if grown in a sheltered spot in the landscape.

Earliest fruit tree to flower in the spring; best trained to modified central leader system; trees should be pruned lightly in their early years, just enough to develop a sufficient scaffold structure; in northern regions you may want to postpone pruning until after bloom and spring frosts so you can tailor your pruning severity somewhat to the amount of crop you can anticipate; direct much of the pruning of the mature tree to keep in contained to the height and width practical for your garden

Rootstock
Myrobalan (plum rootstock) is very well adapted to heavy, wet soils; produces well anchored standard size tree.


Varieties adapted to the Pacific coast – Blenheim, Goldbar, Goldrich, Goldstrike, Moorpark, Perfection, Puget Sound, Rival, Tomcot, Wenatchee

Low chill apricots – Earligold, Garden Annie (600), Newcastle (350), Perfection (600)

Average years to bearing – 4-5 years
Average yield per tree – 50 to 100 pounds
Space needed per tree – 20 foot circle
Average mature height – 20+ feet
Days from bloom to harvest – 80 to 90 days
Pollination requirements – many are self-fruitful, but produce better with cross pollination
Most common pruning system – modified central leader
Commonly used rootstock – Apricot seedling or Myrobalan (plum rootstock)
Common insect pests – Curculio, oriental fruit moth
Common diseases – Brown rot
Useful life – 12 + years
Number of trees for a family of four – 1 to 2 trees
Bears fruit on 2 to 4 year old spurs and tips of new growth


Moorpark (England 1760)

Tilton
Resistant to late frost; purportedly one of the best tasting; approximate harvest date July 1 to July 10; 600 chill hours; widely adapted; semi-dwarf stock from Peaceful Valley

Harcot
Approx harvest date June 5 to June 15th; 700 chill hours; frost hardy; late blooming; resists brow rot and perennial canker; very tasty; semi-dwarf stock from Peaceful Valley

Chinese Apricot

Cherry trees - sour

Sour (or tart) cherry trees bear fruit on numerous fruiting spurs and on one year old lateral (or side) branches.

It is important to keep a tart cherry tree growing vigorously – studies have shown that if less than seven inches of new branch grown is made in a season, that wood will bear almost all fruit buds and the next year the wood will become nonproductive since no vegetative buds were borne to continue renewal of one-year wood. Moderate annual pruning will encourage continued production of fruiting wood.

Natural open and spreading growth habit benefits from being trained to a central leader. Central leader training for cherry different than other trees so refer to Backyard Orchardist for details.


Mahaleb rootstock produces slightly more compact tree than Mazzard rootstock; also more productive, has better winter hardiness, tolerant of drought conditions.

Colt semi-dwarf rootstock is a possible choice for limited spaces.


"All cherry trees are self-fruitful so need to plant only one." Backyard Orchardist;
"Most require a pollinator." Peaceful Valley
SO WHICH ONE IS IT -- POLLINATOR OR NO POLLINATOR? Answer: Both -- it looks like the Backyard Orchardist author mentioned only self-pollinators, while Peaceful Valley catalog includes both self-pollinators and those that need another pollinator.

Average years to bearing – 4-5 years
Average yield per tree – 30 pounds at around 7 years; 50-100 pounds at maturity
Space needed per tree – 15-20 foot circle
Average mature height – 20+ feet
Days from bloom to harvest – 60 days
Pollination requirements – self fertile, only Morello benefits from cross pollination
Most common pruning system – modified central leader
Commonly used rootstock – Mahaleb
Common insect pests – Curculio, cherry fruit fly
Common diseases – Brown rot, leaf spot
Useful life – 15 years
Number of trees for a family of four – 1 tree
Bears fruit on spurs and one year old wood

English Morello Cherry - sour; commonly grown in Europe; matures just before the Montmorency and is able to hang on the tree longer without losing quality. It is quite susceptible to cherry leaf spot fungus; not necessary but benefits from cross-pollination

Early Richmond -sour, early ripening variety that is harvested about ten days ahead on Montmorency; fruit is smaller and flavor is more acidic; typically yields less than the same size Montmorency tree.

Lapin Cherry - sweet but consider because it's interesting and seems to be something we could grow here; self-pollinator

Montmorency - most common variety so not unique, but is reliable; ripens in mid to late July in the major Great Lakes cherry producing regions. ripens in late-July; requires 900 to 1000 chill hours; self pollinator


North Star - The Dwarf North Star is a medium sized bright red to mahogany skinned cherry, with yellow, juicy tender flesh. This attractive small tree, naturally, only grows 8 to 10 feet; highly productive sour cherry that is extremely cold hardy and disease resistant; prolonged ripening period from late June to late July; 1000 chill hours and self-fertile

Meteor - ORDERED THIS VARIETY FROM JUNG -- COULDN'T FIND WEST COAST VENDOR. cold hardy, late blooming; compact size; available also from Jung Seed (Randolph, WI - not from the region recommended by Co-op),Zones 4-8 A hardy red cherry with large, tart, juicy and completely freestone fruits. Ripens in late July. The tree is vigorous, moderately spreading and grows only 10 to 12 feet tall. Resistant to leaf spot, the most common disease of cherry foliage. Annually productive. Highly recommended for gardeners and small orchards. Also an attractive ornamental. 3 to 5 ft bareroot trees.

Carmin Jewel Cherry

Pear trees

Make take as much as eight to ten years before bearing a substantial crop but may produce for up to 100 years.

Train to a modified central leader; once six or seven lateral scaffold branches have developed and the tree is a manageable height, say 10 feet, head the leader off to a strong lateral branch.

Self-unfruitful so need another variety to pollinate. Pear blossoms oddly unattractive to bees.

Bartlett and Seckel will not cross pollinate each other.
Nice to have three varieties for staggered harvest and distinct tastes.

Susceptible to fireblight so it is best to minimize heading back cuts that encourage profuse lateral growth; it is more desirable to encourage side branching by spreading the scaffolds with wooden or plastic spreaders or tying them down with twine. Light annual thinning out cuts can be used to eliminate unwanted shoots. Once the tree starts producing fruit the weight will also help spread the branches.

Pears ripen from the core out so pick when skin begins to change from dull green to yellowish green, then store them under cool conditions (34 degrees), bringing out needed quantities and allowing them to ripen at room temperature.

Apple trees

The average fruit tree generally require one inch of water per week; six to eight hours of sunlight.

Planting on a north facing slope may delay blooming and help avoid blossom drop due to late frosts. Plant orchard in burm with slope facing south.

The perfect planting site: gently rolling site with some protection from harsh winter winds and extreme temperatures; a growing season with at least 150 frost free days would allow for a wide choice of fruit varieties; sandy loam with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0 and good drainage; easy access to water; at least 8 hours of sunshine daily.

Apple, pear, and cherry trees need to be trained to a central leader, which requires removing all the side branches (see Backyard Orchardist)

Peaches, nectarines and plums need to be trained to the open center system (see Backyard Orchardist).

Once the trees are planted and pruned, wrap the trunk with a flexible plastic “mouse” guard. Use a size that is tall enough to protect the trunk as far up as the lowest scaffold. Leave in place only as long as the trunk diameter fills it.

Paint the tree trunks white in Fall

Apple trees start developing fruit buds within the tissue the summer prior to the year in which the fruit becomes visible; developing June through March (rats! This means Raf’s tree won’t produce better fruit until 2010, provided care starts now.)

Average years to bearing: Standard - 8 years Dwarf - 3 to 6 years
Average yield per tree: Standard - 10 to 12 bushels Dwarf -1 to 6 bushels
Space needed per tree: Standard - 25 to 30 foot circle Dwarf - 6 to 15 foot circle
Average mature height: Standard - 25+ feet Dwarf - 6 to 20 feet
Days from bloom to harvest: 90 to 180 days
Pollination requirements: Cross pollinate with another apple
Most common pruning system: Central leader
Common insect pests: Curculio, codling moth, apple maggot
Useful life: Standard 50+ years Dwarf 20+ years
Suggested number of trees for family of four: 2 to 3
Bears fruit on spurs that are several years old

Suburban chicken coop

My Pet Chicken - stealth chicken coop

Fruit tree care

Best to plant trees in the fall; if not possible better to plant in the winter; spring and summer are the worst times to plant.

The average fruit tree generally require one inch of water per week; six to eight hours of sunlight; two watering things are important to remember -- one avoid letting the tree become so dry that it wilts--two, deep watering once a week will do more to develop deep roots than a little sprinkle every few days.

Young nonbearing trees need a weekly watering of about eight gallons; mulch about 6 inches deep; mature trees need roughly one gallon of water per square foot of root area; root area extends two to three feet beyond the branches.

Chill hours defined as number of hours below 45 degrees (600 in Nevada); an interruption of the chilling period can occur if winter temperatures climb above 60 degrees. Under theses conditions, degree units are actually subtracted from the chilling effect.

A tree planted near a stone patio with a south facing sun exposure may negatively effect chill needs.

Sexual parts of the flower develop before going dormant or into rest stage; while in the dormant stage the internal growth processes continue at a very slow pace. During this time the fruit tree needs to be subjected to a certain amount of time below 45 degrees (chill hours) or the fruit and leaf buds may not develop and open normally.

Fruit trees prefer a pH of 6.5 to 6.8; alkaline soils are more common in dry climates

Planting on a north facing slope may delay blooming and help avoid blossom drop due to late frosts. Plant orchard in burm with slope facing south.

The perfect planting site: gently rolling site with some protection from harsh winter winds and extreme temperatures; a growing season with at least 150 frost free days would allow for a wide choice of fruit varieties; sandy loam with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0 and good drainage; easy access to water; at least 8 hours of sunshine daily.

Apple, pear, and cherry trees need to be trained to a central leader, which requires removing all the side branches (see Backyard Orchardist)

Peaches, nectarines and plums need to be trained to the open center system (see Backyard Orchardist).

Once the trees are planted and pruned, wrap the trunk with a flexible plastic “mouse” guard; reasonably effective for rabbit protection. Use a size that is tall enough to protect the trunk as far up as the lowest scaffold. Leave in place only as long as the trunk diameter fills it.

Fruit trees are heavy nitrogen users – supplement annually with cover crops

Phosphorus (rock phosphate) necessary for root, seed and early leaf growth; apply to the soil ahead of planting

Potassium for production of fruit, roots, and disease resistance

Secondary necessary nutrients – calcium, magnesium (Epsom salt is one source), and sulfur; apply occasionally based on soil test results

Trace minerals – boron, copper, chlorine (?!), iron, manganese, molybdenum (?), zinc. Seaweed emulsion is a trace mineral source.

Backyard Orchardist recommends removing the fruit early during the first couple of years when pruning, and root and scaffolding development is most critical. Weight of the fruit might compromise the scaffolding structure. Goal is to develop about 24 inches per year of strong growth on each shoot.

Fruit trees allowed to follow their natural tendency and grow vertically will produce lower yeilds and may not produce at all.

Newtown Pippin apple

WE BOUGHT THIS ONE!

Dessert, pie, cooking, cider, Ark of Taste, Chez Panisse

Purchase from Michael's Apples on M26 stock (30% to 40% of standard size)

From Michael's Apples - "Newtown, Long Island, New York early 1700’s Ben Franklin had some sent to him in England in 1759, the British loved it and the subsequent demand launched the US fruit export business. A great all around apple including cider. Ripens in October, but is and excellent keeper that develops full sugar and rich flavor when stored until March."

From Trees of Antiquity - "Favorite apple of George Washington. Shape oblate; skin green to yellow, often russeted, sprightly aromatic flavor with refreshing piney tartness. Does well in California and is heat resistant. A great keeper."

Cultivar: Newton Pippin
Family: Rosaceae
Size: Height: 10 ft. to 30 ft.
Width: 10 ft. to 15 ft.
Plant Category: fruits, trees,
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance,
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves, deciduous,
Foliage Color: green,
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, long lasting,
Flower Color: whites,
Tolerances:

Requirements
Bloomtime Range: Mid Spring to Early Summer
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant
Light Range: Full Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 6.5 to 7
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Clay Loam
Water Range: Normal to Normal

Calville Blanc d'Hiver apple

WE BOUGHT THIS ONE!
PLANT IN WARM SHELTERED LOCATION BECAUSE IT BLOOMS IN EARLY SPRING; SUSCEPTIBLE TO INEVITABLE LATE FROST. NEED POLLINATOR THAT BLOOMS EARLY.

Cider, pie, dessert, cooking.
On B9 stock - 6-9 feet (25% to 30% of standard size)
From Michael's Apples - "France; introduced in 1598. Grown for Louis XIII; a favorite of Thomas Jefferson and still served for desert in fine Paris restaurants. Pale green fruit; tender, sweet, spicy, and favorable. More vitamin C than an orange. Excellent keeper that turns yellow and more flavorful with storage. Ripens Oct to Dec. Zone 5."

From Trees of Antiquity - Large, with characteristic ribbed Calvile shape. Sking pale red with a tinge of yellow. Sweet, slight strawberry or vinous flavor; tender, juicy flesh. Good fresh and for baked apples, keeps its form with a smooth creamy texture. Not for cold foggy, climates.


Cultivar: Calville Rouge
Family: Rosaceae

Size: Height: 0 ft. to 30 ft.Width: 0 ft. to 15 ft.
Plant Category: fruits, trees,
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance, round,
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves, deciduous,
Foliage Color: green,
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, single,
Flower Color: whites,
Tolerances:

Requirements
Bloomtime Range: Early Spring to Late Spring
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant
Light Range: Full Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 6.5 to 7
Soil Range: Any
Water Range: Normal to Normal

Nevada chill hours

Approximately 600 to 800, according to Nevada Co-op Ext. Master Gardeners

Chill hours defined as number of hours below 45 degrees; an interruption of the chilling period can occur if winter temperatures climb above 60 degrees. Under theses conditions, degree units are actually subtracted from the chilling effect.

A tree planted near a stone patio with a south facing sun exposure may negatively effect chill needs.

November tree care

November is the time to harvest fruit, rake leaves from around your trees, spread compost and mulch, and protected your tree trunks with white paint.

Removing fallen fruit and leaf litter also removes insect pest eggs and pupae. Keeping mulch 12 to 18 inches away from the trunk will discourage mice and voles from nesting near and nibbling on the tree trunks.

Now is the time to guard your tree trunks from sun damage. Next time you pass a cherry tree, look at the southwest side of the trunk; most will show a damaged trunk on this side (about 7:00 when looking north). This damage is due to sunscald. When the temperatures in the winter are freezing, the sun heats up the water in the trunk facing the afternoon sun. The bark heats up enough to damage the bark cells; then the quick freeze at nightfall increase the damage.

Michael's November newsletter

Protect your tree by painting the trunk white before winter; off white, oyster, bridal veil, etc will also work. Use interior latex (water-base) paint and dilute 50/50 with water. Paint the lower portion of the trunk under the first set of limbs. Check the younger trees as winter progresses to see if limbs or upper portions of the trunk are being damaged and protect as needed.

I spread composted horse manure around my trees each fall. I then cover with a 2 to 4 inch layer of straw mulch (mostly to keep horse manure compost from coming in the house on my shoes). Leaves (shredded to keep them in place) will also work. The manure feeds the earthworms that keep the soil aerated and permeable and the mulch keeps moisture in the soil.

Sources for compost or horse manure: In the Gardnerville area, try Full Circle Compost north of town for compost. I have seen ads for composted manure in Washoe Valley. Most folks with horses will gladly part with some of their manure—try for someone who has the horses corralled and fed hay, rather than horses out foraging in a weed-infested pasture.

Remember that non-composted manure from cows, sheep, and poultry can be “hot” or high in nitrogen that will burn/damage plants and should not be applied directly. Those ‘green’ manures need ‘brown material’—straw, leaves, paper—added, mixed, and then composted before use. The horse provides the correct green/brown mix at the ‘source’ and can be applied directly, although, if given a choice, I’d use the stuff that’s been sitting around for a few months. And that’s the scoop on the poop.

Be sure to monitor soil moisture throughout the winter. I check soil moisture on the holidays—Thanksgiving, Christmas, MLK day, President’s day, St. Patrick’s day—and then the not-so-festive-and-sometimes-evil Tax Day.

Garlic

Mother Earth garlic article

Zone description for Reno/Sparks

Sunset's Western Garden - Zone 2B
Arborday.org - 7

Warmer-summer intermountain climate.

This is a zone that offers a good balance of long, warm summers, and chilly winter, making it an excellent climate zone for commercial fruit growing. That’s why you’ll find orchards in this zone in almost every state in the West. You’ll also find this warm-summer, snowy-winter climate along Colorado’s Western Slope and mild parts of the Front Range; in Nevada from Reno to Fallon, then north to Lovelock; in large areas of northern Arizona and New Mexico; and in mild parts of the Columbia and Snake River Basins.

Winter temperatures are milder than in neighboring Zone 2a, minimums averaging from 12 to 22 degrees, with extremes in the -10 to -20 range. The growing season here in Zone 2b runs from 115 days in higher elevations and more northerly areas to more than 160 days in southeaster Colorado. (Mid-may through end of September with milder temperatures approximately one month before and a couple weeks after.

From Sunset’s Western Garden Book, 2007