Container gardens

Clay pots not great -- look for thick plastic pots or wooden 1/2 barrels and planters.

Companion plant in large pots but avoid plants that spread aggressively; they should be low growing. Consider herbs.

When planting amend compost with a sprinkle if bloodmeal, a handful each of greensand, rock or colloidal phosphate, and bonemeal. After the first year liquid or dry organic fertilizer.

Over wintering – dormant hardy trees can be stored in the garage through the winter; surround containers with bags of leaves; sink pots into ground and mulch.

Cover crops

Vetches, clovers, peas, and beans are good cover crops for our yard

Certain brassicas are gaining popularity as cover crops -- radishes, mustard, and rapeseed. Biofumigation characteristics -- or their ability to reduce disease, weed and nematode pressure in subsequent crops; also do a really good job of breaking up compacted soils, increasing water permeability
We planted hairy vetch in fall 2008 -- should be planted right after summer crop is harvested; tilled under in early spring when the plants begin to flower. Turned-under green manure should be allowed to break down and mellow for a few weeks prior to planting the main summer crop.

Orchard - plant cover crop that includes perennial plants and self-seeding annual to provide living mulch. This feeds and protects the trees while providing an excellent habitat for beneficial insects and reducing weed pressure. White clover is good; include flowering plants like yarrow or tansy.

Manage Fruit Crop Pests and Diseases

Manage Fruit Crop Pests from Hobby Farms magazine

Vegetables - misc

Burr Gherkins

Pole beans will climb vertically but won't interweave horizontally; look for "cornfield beans" if you plan to grow Three Sisters--more tolerant of shade

Grains

Garden grains from Bountiful Gardens in Willits, CA

Wheat, spelt, triticale

Amaranth is pretty and popular -- grains good to eat, greens good for eating or composting

Single serving sized veg varities

Honey Bear acorn squash
Pot-O-Gold chard
Little Gem lettuce
Garden Babies lettuce
Small Miracle broccoli

Also good for container gardening

Mother Earth News Find Seeds/Plants

Mother Earth News Find Seeds/Plants - find seed companies that sell the specific seed variety you want

Frost definitions and approx dates

FIRST FROST (FALL):
October 8th according to the NV Coop Ext
September 16th according to the National Weather Service

LIGHT FROST:
A frost where the air temp has dropped below freezing but the ground has not. Many plants can survive a light frost but cannot survive a hard frost.
GardenWeb Glossary of Botanical Terms

Generally when air temperatures fall to less than 33° Fahrenheit but remain above 28° Fahrenheit; typically for only a few hours; See also hard frost

HARD FROST:
Defined as temperatures below 28 degrees for a few hours

May 30th for everything but tomatoes, peppers, and melons

June 20th for tomatoes, peppers, and melons

Potatoes

PRESPROUT for harvest a month earlier (start in late February or March) five weeks before planting spread seeds in a single layer in warm, well-let room, and wait for them to sprout from the eyes. Fragile! Large sprouts that break off of the parent potato will often grown anyway when planted in moist soil

PLANTING:
In climates with short springs and hot summers, plant early and midseason varieties three to four weeks before your last spring frost date - plant late April or early May

In climates with long springs and hot summers, plant early and mid season varieties three to four weeks before your last spring frost date; plant late-maturing varieties in early summer so they will mature in cooler fall.

Potatoes like acidic soils (below 6.0) at least 10 inches deep

Prepare beds early April – compost or rotted leaves, along with a half-ration of alfalfa meal, soybean meal or other high nitrogen organic material – do not use manure because it is correlated with an increase in rough patches on the spud skins

Prepare the seeds two days before planting

Cover plants with blankets if a late frost is forecast – they will recover

Mulch heavily

HARVEST:
Begin digging when the foliage starts to yellow and wither; allow the tubers to dry indoors covered with dry towels for a day or two; take care to protect them from sunlight which causes them to turn green and bitter; store most perfect potatoes in a cool 50-60 degree place to be used as seed next year.

Or:

Blooming flowers are a cue that potatoes have reached "new potatoe" size. If you want to harvest new potatoes, dig out a full plant and its tubers, leaving neighboring plants undisturbed. Vines may die back on their own as the potato crop matures, but if they don't show signs of doing so, cugt them off at soil level 2 weeks before you want to dig your crop. This will trigger the potatoes to harden, which helps them LAST LONGER IN STORAGE.

COVER CROP:
After harvest replant space with buckwheat.

SEED SAVING:
Save the most perfect potatoes for seed; need about six pounds of potatoes to plant a 50 foot row – yield will vary from 75-125 pounds

Grape vine - mystery grape

Grape vine early summer '08 Grape vine September '08

Ours is a gift from Leslie--don't know what variety
Two basic classes of table grapes. European varieties have tight skins wine-like flavors, high heat requirements for ripening, and are the most common grapes grown in California. Use fresh, dried, or for juices or wine.

Susceptible to powdery mildew, they require regular dusting or spraying with sulfur or other mildew control. American varieties have Concord-like flavor, moderate heat requirements, and are late blooming and resistant to powdery mildew. Both classes may grow successfully in very warm sites at lower elevations, require deep moderately fertile soils and regular pruning for high quality and production; self fertile.

Perlette - through zone 6; approx harvest date July; American; crisp pale green berry; larger; two weeks earlier, requires less heat to ripen than Thompson

Keep soil on the dryer side after plant has been established (1 or 2 years); apply compost in early spring.

Remove weak fruit clusters while fruit is still small and hard; pinch off the leaves near and surrounding the clusters.

Shriveled fruits are called "mummies".

Peach trees

Apply compost in early spring and again when fruits first form.

See page 94 of Rodale's Fruit for yearly pruning needs.

Cresthaven

Red Haven
Beautiful red-over-yellow fruit, with yellow flesh that’s firm yet melting and delicious. Early season, a favorite in our orchard for eating, canning and freeing. Very productive, needs thinning, has never failed to set a crop for us even in rainy weather. Non-showy flowers. Not for warm winters. (Trees of Antiquity)

Reliance
Best choice for severely cold winters and springs (Trees of Antiquity) --available dwarfed from
Jung Seeds BOUGHT THIS ONE

Harken peach/Lovall rootstock -- This is the best flavored peach in our climate. From Canada, hardy and widely adapted. It is very sweet and bears a regular crop of large freestone peaches. For canning, pick fruit before it is table ripe. Ripens early August. Self fertile. Climate Zones: 5 to 9; pruning required to make it a dwarf

Frost peach -Pumi dwarf rootstock -- A flavorful, yellow fleshed peach good for canning or fresh eating. Semi-freestone. The longest tested curl resistant choice. Ripens mid-August. Self fertile. On the dwarfing pumi select rootstock. Climate Zones: 5 to 9

Mary Jane peach/Pumi dwarf rootstock -- A red skinned, yellow fleshed peach with showy pink flowers and very good flavor, It sets fruit even in frosty springs. It ripens mid August. It is good for fresh eating, drying, canning or freezing, A chance seedling selected by Louie Strahl in Steilacoom, WA. Climate Zones: 5 to 9


Shortest lived of the fruit trees- 10 to 15 years

Prune to an open vase (see Backyard Orchardist); pruning time dependant more on location than other tree types; peach tree pruning typically done in late winter or early spring; prune late (May 4th on my calendar) to allow frost damage assessment of buds and branches; remove wood that was freeze damaged and moderately prune the portion of the tree that still has live wood and buds; or if winter is mild, make thinning out cuts in late winter and possibly a few more after bloom, when the danger for frost damage to the flowers has passed.

Buds typically occur on lateral wood growth from the previous season; fruit buds appear as two plumb surrounding one vegetative bud; peaches and nectarines are typically self fertile; plant a couple of varieties to extent the harvest season

Peach trees produce many more fruit buds than necessary to produce abundant harvest; 10% of buds typically adequate; thin developing peaches about 6 to 8 weeks after bloom if cool, 4 to 6 weeks after bloom if warm.

Each peach needs 35 leaves to support its growth; consider when thinning developing fruits (Cool tidbit).

Split pit caused by insufficient moisture supplied to the developing fruit early in the season, followed by sudden abundant moisture; best remedy is a steady water supply

Light textured, well drained soils; susceptible to nematodes, viruses and bacterial diseases, and cold injury

Clingstone fruit flesh tends to be firm and smooth textured when canned; freestone flesh typically softer and have a slightly stringy texture when canned; no growing or care issues differ between the two types; early ripening varieties tend to be clingstone, while later ripening varieties tend to be freestone

Redhaven ripening date is commonly used as the reference to harvest date; those that mature before and up to a week later than Redhaven are termed early season varieties; midseason varieties mature up to two weeks later than Redhaven; late season varieties follow, ripening up to a month after Redhaven. If catalog provides info that looks like this…Candor (-19)…it means Candor ripens 19 days before Redhaven and would be considered an early season variety.

Winter hardy trees:
Belle of Georgia
Jefferson
Madison
Oldmixon Free
Pocahontas
Raritan Rose
Reliance (Trees of Antiquity)

Winter hardy fruit buds:
Belle of Georgia
Earliglo
McKay
Oldmixon Free
Raritan Rose
Reliance (Trees of Antiquity)

Average years to bearing – 4 years
Average yield per tree – 2 to 2 ½ bushels
Space needed per tree – 15 foot circle
Average mature height – 20 feet
Days from bloom to harvest – 60 to 120 days depending on variety
Pollination requirements – self-fruitful
Most common pruning system – open center
Commonly used rootstock – Halford or Lovell (standard tree)
Common insect pests – Oriental fruit moth, tarnished plant bug, curculio (weevil)
Common diseases – Brown rot, leaf curl, valsa canker, brown rot, bacterial spot
Useful life – 12 years
Number of trees for a family of four – 2 to 3 trees
Bears fruit on one year old wood

Plum trees

This Green Gage Bavays plum looks really interesting – consider!

Apricot trees

WE ORDERED (arrived bare root on 2/16/09) :

*Genetic dwarf apricot named 15MA522 (icky), compact tree, estimated required 600 chill hours,

*Nemaguard peach rootstock, vigorous, resistant to root-knot nematode, unpruned tree height of standard varieties 15-25 ft, but trees on this stock can be held to any height with summer pruning.

*Will plant in a used 1/2 wine barrel purchased at Raley's.

Apricots more closely related to plums than peaches; most are self-fertile

Fruit buds are normally produced on spurs that fruit for two to four years and on the tips of last season’s shoot growth; pruning has been shown to be the best way to reduce competition among excess fruit.

Apricot trees are large and sturdy; fruit buds similar in hardiness to peach but quite susceptible to drying by cold winter winds, consequently apricots produce best if grown in a sheltered spot in the landscape.

Earliest fruit tree to flower in the spring; best trained to modified central leader system; trees should be pruned lightly in their early years, just enough to develop a sufficient scaffold structure; in northern regions you may want to postpone pruning until after bloom and spring frosts so you can tailor your pruning severity somewhat to the amount of crop you can anticipate; direct much of the pruning of the mature tree to keep in contained to the height and width practical for your garden

Rootstock
Myrobalan (plum rootstock) is very well adapted to heavy, wet soils; produces well anchored standard size tree.


Varieties adapted to the Pacific coast – Blenheim, Goldbar, Goldrich, Goldstrike, Moorpark, Perfection, Puget Sound, Rival, Tomcot, Wenatchee

Low chill apricots – Earligold, Garden Annie (600), Newcastle (350), Perfection (600)

Average years to bearing – 4-5 years
Average yield per tree – 50 to 100 pounds
Space needed per tree – 20 foot circle
Average mature height – 20+ feet
Days from bloom to harvest – 80 to 90 days
Pollination requirements – many are self-fruitful, but produce better with cross pollination
Most common pruning system – modified central leader
Commonly used rootstock – Apricot seedling or Myrobalan (plum rootstock)
Common insect pests – Curculio, oriental fruit moth
Common diseases – Brown rot
Useful life – 12 + years
Number of trees for a family of four – 1 to 2 trees
Bears fruit on 2 to 4 year old spurs and tips of new growth


Moorpark (England 1760)

Tilton
Resistant to late frost; purportedly one of the best tasting; approximate harvest date July 1 to July 10; 600 chill hours; widely adapted; semi-dwarf stock from Peaceful Valley

Harcot
Approx harvest date June 5 to June 15th; 700 chill hours; frost hardy; late blooming; resists brow rot and perennial canker; very tasty; semi-dwarf stock from Peaceful Valley

Chinese Apricot

Cherry trees - sour

Sour (or tart) cherry trees bear fruit on numerous fruiting spurs and on one year old lateral (or side) branches.

It is important to keep a tart cherry tree growing vigorously – studies have shown that if less than seven inches of new branch grown is made in a season, that wood will bear almost all fruit buds and the next year the wood will become nonproductive since no vegetative buds were borne to continue renewal of one-year wood. Moderate annual pruning will encourage continued production of fruiting wood.

Natural open and spreading growth habit benefits from being trained to a central leader. Central leader training for cherry different than other trees so refer to Backyard Orchardist for details.


Mahaleb rootstock produces slightly more compact tree than Mazzard rootstock; also more productive, has better winter hardiness, tolerant of drought conditions.

Colt semi-dwarf rootstock is a possible choice for limited spaces.


"All cherry trees are self-fruitful so need to plant only one." Backyard Orchardist;
"Most require a pollinator." Peaceful Valley
SO WHICH ONE IS IT -- POLLINATOR OR NO POLLINATOR? Answer: Both -- it looks like the Backyard Orchardist author mentioned only self-pollinators, while Peaceful Valley catalog includes both self-pollinators and those that need another pollinator.

Average years to bearing – 4-5 years
Average yield per tree – 30 pounds at around 7 years; 50-100 pounds at maturity
Space needed per tree – 15-20 foot circle
Average mature height – 20+ feet
Days from bloom to harvest – 60 days
Pollination requirements – self fertile, only Morello benefits from cross pollination
Most common pruning system – modified central leader
Commonly used rootstock – Mahaleb
Common insect pests – Curculio, cherry fruit fly
Common diseases – Brown rot, leaf spot
Useful life – 15 years
Number of trees for a family of four – 1 tree
Bears fruit on spurs and one year old wood

English Morello Cherry - sour; commonly grown in Europe; matures just before the Montmorency and is able to hang on the tree longer without losing quality. It is quite susceptible to cherry leaf spot fungus; not necessary but benefits from cross-pollination

Early Richmond -sour, early ripening variety that is harvested about ten days ahead on Montmorency; fruit is smaller and flavor is more acidic; typically yields less than the same size Montmorency tree.

Lapin Cherry - sweet but consider because it's interesting and seems to be something we could grow here; self-pollinator

Montmorency - most common variety so not unique, but is reliable; ripens in mid to late July in the major Great Lakes cherry producing regions. ripens in late-July; requires 900 to 1000 chill hours; self pollinator


North Star - The Dwarf North Star is a medium sized bright red to mahogany skinned cherry, with yellow, juicy tender flesh. This attractive small tree, naturally, only grows 8 to 10 feet; highly productive sour cherry that is extremely cold hardy and disease resistant; prolonged ripening period from late June to late July; 1000 chill hours and self-fertile

Meteor - ORDERED THIS VARIETY FROM JUNG -- COULDN'T FIND WEST COAST VENDOR. cold hardy, late blooming; compact size; available also from Jung Seed (Randolph, WI - not from the region recommended by Co-op),Zones 4-8 A hardy red cherry with large, tart, juicy and completely freestone fruits. Ripens in late July. The tree is vigorous, moderately spreading and grows only 10 to 12 feet tall. Resistant to leaf spot, the most common disease of cherry foliage. Annually productive. Highly recommended for gardeners and small orchards. Also an attractive ornamental. 3 to 5 ft bareroot trees.

Carmin Jewel Cherry

Pear trees

Make take as much as eight to ten years before bearing a substantial crop but may produce for up to 100 years.

Train to a modified central leader; once six or seven lateral scaffold branches have developed and the tree is a manageable height, say 10 feet, head the leader off to a strong lateral branch.

Self-unfruitful so need another variety to pollinate. Pear blossoms oddly unattractive to bees.

Bartlett and Seckel will not cross pollinate each other.
Nice to have three varieties for staggered harvest and distinct tastes.

Susceptible to fireblight so it is best to minimize heading back cuts that encourage profuse lateral growth; it is more desirable to encourage side branching by spreading the scaffolds with wooden or plastic spreaders or tying them down with twine. Light annual thinning out cuts can be used to eliminate unwanted shoots. Once the tree starts producing fruit the weight will also help spread the branches.

Pears ripen from the core out so pick when skin begins to change from dull green to yellowish green, then store them under cool conditions (34 degrees), bringing out needed quantities and allowing them to ripen at room temperature.

Apple trees

The average fruit tree generally require one inch of water per week; six to eight hours of sunlight.

Planting on a north facing slope may delay blooming and help avoid blossom drop due to late frosts. Plant orchard in burm with slope facing south.

The perfect planting site: gently rolling site with some protection from harsh winter winds and extreme temperatures; a growing season with at least 150 frost free days would allow for a wide choice of fruit varieties; sandy loam with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0 and good drainage; easy access to water; at least 8 hours of sunshine daily.

Apple, pear, and cherry trees need to be trained to a central leader, which requires removing all the side branches (see Backyard Orchardist)

Peaches, nectarines and plums need to be trained to the open center system (see Backyard Orchardist).

Once the trees are planted and pruned, wrap the trunk with a flexible plastic “mouse” guard. Use a size that is tall enough to protect the trunk as far up as the lowest scaffold. Leave in place only as long as the trunk diameter fills it.

Paint the tree trunks white in Fall

Apple trees start developing fruit buds within the tissue the summer prior to the year in which the fruit becomes visible; developing June through March (rats! This means Raf’s tree won’t produce better fruit until 2010, provided care starts now.)

Average years to bearing: Standard - 8 years Dwarf - 3 to 6 years
Average yield per tree: Standard - 10 to 12 bushels Dwarf -1 to 6 bushels
Space needed per tree: Standard - 25 to 30 foot circle Dwarf - 6 to 15 foot circle
Average mature height: Standard - 25+ feet Dwarf - 6 to 20 feet
Days from bloom to harvest: 90 to 180 days
Pollination requirements: Cross pollinate with another apple
Most common pruning system: Central leader
Common insect pests: Curculio, codling moth, apple maggot
Useful life: Standard 50+ years Dwarf 20+ years
Suggested number of trees for family of four: 2 to 3
Bears fruit on spurs that are several years old

Suburban chicken coop

My Pet Chicken - stealth chicken coop

Fruit tree care

Best to plant trees in the fall; if not possible better to plant in the winter; spring and summer are the worst times to plant.

The average fruit tree generally require one inch of water per week; six to eight hours of sunlight; two watering things are important to remember -- one avoid letting the tree become so dry that it wilts--two, deep watering once a week will do more to develop deep roots than a little sprinkle every few days.

Young nonbearing trees need a weekly watering of about eight gallons; mulch about 6 inches deep; mature trees need roughly one gallon of water per square foot of root area; root area extends two to three feet beyond the branches.

Chill hours defined as number of hours below 45 degrees (600 in Nevada); an interruption of the chilling period can occur if winter temperatures climb above 60 degrees. Under theses conditions, degree units are actually subtracted from the chilling effect.

A tree planted near a stone patio with a south facing sun exposure may negatively effect chill needs.

Sexual parts of the flower develop before going dormant or into rest stage; while in the dormant stage the internal growth processes continue at a very slow pace. During this time the fruit tree needs to be subjected to a certain amount of time below 45 degrees (chill hours) or the fruit and leaf buds may not develop and open normally.

Fruit trees prefer a pH of 6.5 to 6.8; alkaline soils are more common in dry climates

Planting on a north facing slope may delay blooming and help avoid blossom drop due to late frosts. Plant orchard in burm with slope facing south.

The perfect planting site: gently rolling site with some protection from harsh winter winds and extreme temperatures; a growing season with at least 150 frost free days would allow for a wide choice of fruit varieties; sandy loam with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0 and good drainage; easy access to water; at least 8 hours of sunshine daily.

Apple, pear, and cherry trees need to be trained to a central leader, which requires removing all the side branches (see Backyard Orchardist)

Peaches, nectarines and plums need to be trained to the open center system (see Backyard Orchardist).

Once the trees are planted and pruned, wrap the trunk with a flexible plastic “mouse” guard; reasonably effective for rabbit protection. Use a size that is tall enough to protect the trunk as far up as the lowest scaffold. Leave in place only as long as the trunk diameter fills it.

Fruit trees are heavy nitrogen users – supplement annually with cover crops

Phosphorus (rock phosphate) necessary for root, seed and early leaf growth; apply to the soil ahead of planting

Potassium for production of fruit, roots, and disease resistance

Secondary necessary nutrients – calcium, magnesium (Epsom salt is one source), and sulfur; apply occasionally based on soil test results

Trace minerals – boron, copper, chlorine (?!), iron, manganese, molybdenum (?), zinc. Seaweed emulsion is a trace mineral source.

Backyard Orchardist recommends removing the fruit early during the first couple of years when pruning, and root and scaffolding development is most critical. Weight of the fruit might compromise the scaffolding structure. Goal is to develop about 24 inches per year of strong growth on each shoot.

Fruit trees allowed to follow their natural tendency and grow vertically will produce lower yeilds and may not produce at all.

Newtown Pippin apple

WE BOUGHT THIS ONE!

Dessert, pie, cooking, cider, Ark of Taste, Chez Panisse

Purchase from Michael's Apples on M26 stock (30% to 40% of standard size)

From Michael's Apples - "Newtown, Long Island, New York early 1700’s Ben Franklin had some sent to him in England in 1759, the British loved it and the subsequent demand launched the US fruit export business. A great all around apple including cider. Ripens in October, but is and excellent keeper that develops full sugar and rich flavor when stored until March."

From Trees of Antiquity - "Favorite apple of George Washington. Shape oblate; skin green to yellow, often russeted, sprightly aromatic flavor with refreshing piney tartness. Does well in California and is heat resistant. A great keeper."

Cultivar: Newton Pippin
Family: Rosaceae
Size: Height: 10 ft. to 30 ft.
Width: 10 ft. to 15 ft.
Plant Category: fruits, trees,
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance,
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves, deciduous,
Foliage Color: green,
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, long lasting,
Flower Color: whites,
Tolerances:

Requirements
Bloomtime Range: Mid Spring to Early Summer
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant
Light Range: Full Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 6.5 to 7
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Clay Loam
Water Range: Normal to Normal

Calville Blanc d'Hiver apple

WE BOUGHT THIS ONE!
PLANT IN WARM SHELTERED LOCATION BECAUSE IT BLOOMS IN EARLY SPRING; SUSCEPTIBLE TO INEVITABLE LATE FROST. NEED POLLINATOR THAT BLOOMS EARLY.

Cider, pie, dessert, cooking.
On B9 stock - 6-9 feet (25% to 30% of standard size)
From Michael's Apples - "France; introduced in 1598. Grown for Louis XIII; a favorite of Thomas Jefferson and still served for desert in fine Paris restaurants. Pale green fruit; tender, sweet, spicy, and favorable. More vitamin C than an orange. Excellent keeper that turns yellow and more flavorful with storage. Ripens Oct to Dec. Zone 5."

From Trees of Antiquity - Large, with characteristic ribbed Calvile shape. Sking pale red with a tinge of yellow. Sweet, slight strawberry or vinous flavor; tender, juicy flesh. Good fresh and for baked apples, keeps its form with a smooth creamy texture. Not for cold foggy, climates.


Cultivar: Calville Rouge
Family: Rosaceae

Size: Height: 0 ft. to 30 ft.Width: 0 ft. to 15 ft.
Plant Category: fruits, trees,
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance, round,
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves, deciduous,
Foliage Color: green,
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, single,
Flower Color: whites,
Tolerances:

Requirements
Bloomtime Range: Early Spring to Late Spring
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant
Light Range: Full Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 6.5 to 7
Soil Range: Any
Water Range: Normal to Normal

Nevada chill hours

Approximately 600 to 800, according to Nevada Co-op Ext. Master Gardeners

Chill hours defined as number of hours below 45 degrees; an interruption of the chilling period can occur if winter temperatures climb above 60 degrees. Under theses conditions, degree units are actually subtracted from the chilling effect.

A tree planted near a stone patio with a south facing sun exposure may negatively effect chill needs.

November tree care

November is the time to harvest fruit, rake leaves from around your trees, spread compost and mulch, and protected your tree trunks with white paint.

Removing fallen fruit and leaf litter also removes insect pest eggs and pupae. Keeping mulch 12 to 18 inches away from the trunk will discourage mice and voles from nesting near and nibbling on the tree trunks.

Now is the time to guard your tree trunks from sun damage. Next time you pass a cherry tree, look at the southwest side of the trunk; most will show a damaged trunk on this side (about 7:00 when looking north). This damage is due to sunscald. When the temperatures in the winter are freezing, the sun heats up the water in the trunk facing the afternoon sun. The bark heats up enough to damage the bark cells; then the quick freeze at nightfall increase the damage.

Michael's November newsletter

Protect your tree by painting the trunk white before winter; off white, oyster, bridal veil, etc will also work. Use interior latex (water-base) paint and dilute 50/50 with water. Paint the lower portion of the trunk under the first set of limbs. Check the younger trees as winter progresses to see if limbs or upper portions of the trunk are being damaged and protect as needed.

I spread composted horse manure around my trees each fall. I then cover with a 2 to 4 inch layer of straw mulch (mostly to keep horse manure compost from coming in the house on my shoes). Leaves (shredded to keep them in place) will also work. The manure feeds the earthworms that keep the soil aerated and permeable and the mulch keeps moisture in the soil.

Sources for compost or horse manure: In the Gardnerville area, try Full Circle Compost north of town for compost. I have seen ads for composted manure in Washoe Valley. Most folks with horses will gladly part with some of their manure—try for someone who has the horses corralled and fed hay, rather than horses out foraging in a weed-infested pasture.

Remember that non-composted manure from cows, sheep, and poultry can be “hot” or high in nitrogen that will burn/damage plants and should not be applied directly. Those ‘green’ manures need ‘brown material’—straw, leaves, paper—added, mixed, and then composted before use. The horse provides the correct green/brown mix at the ‘source’ and can be applied directly, although, if given a choice, I’d use the stuff that’s been sitting around for a few months. And that’s the scoop on the poop.

Be sure to monitor soil moisture throughout the winter. I check soil moisture on the holidays—Thanksgiving, Christmas, MLK day, President’s day, St. Patrick’s day—and then the not-so-festive-and-sometimes-evil Tax Day.

Garlic

Mother Earth garlic article

Zone description for Reno/Sparks

Sunset's Western Garden - Zone 2B
Arborday.org - 7

Warmer-summer intermountain climate.

This is a zone that offers a good balance of long, warm summers, and chilly winter, making it an excellent climate zone for commercial fruit growing. That’s why you’ll find orchards in this zone in almost every state in the West. You’ll also find this warm-summer, snowy-winter climate along Colorado’s Western Slope and mild parts of the Front Range; in Nevada from Reno to Fallon, then north to Lovelock; in large areas of northern Arizona and New Mexico; and in mild parts of the Columbia and Snake River Basins.

Winter temperatures are milder than in neighboring Zone 2a, minimums averaging from 12 to 22 degrees, with extremes in the -10 to -20 range. The growing season here in Zone 2b runs from 115 days in higher elevations and more northerly areas to more than 160 days in southeaster Colorado. (Mid-may through end of September with milder temperatures approximately one month before and a couple weeks after.

From Sunset’s Western Garden Book, 2007

Root crops

Mother Earth News root crop article.

Home canning article

Mother Earth home canning article

Read this then put on LFNN

Neighborhood fruit - quince

Some are ripe in late September, watch for more in October. Used some to make apple/quince jelly yesterday. Pretty!

Composting - Mother Earth News

Mother Earth composting article

Apple tree care -- October

OCTOBER TREE CARE 200

October is the time to check and cut back on watering and to start preparing the trees for the winter. Check the moisture of the soil just outside the drip line of the tree (to avoid root damage). Soil should be moist, but not wet. Test by digging a small hole about 6 “deep and take a small amount of soil from the lower part of the hole. Squeeze the sample in your hand; if the soil breaks apart slightly when you release the pressure, the soil is just right. If you have a solid mud ball, cut back on watering.

Be sure to pick up and discard any fallen fruit to remove insect eggs and larvae in the fruit. Rake the mulch, leaves, and other debris away from the trunk; leave about a foot of clear space for young trees and 18 to 24 inches for older trees.

Many varieties of apples ripen in October. Apples are ripe when the pips (seeds) are dark brown to black. To properly pick, twist the apple and lift; it should come off easily in your hand. Don’t jerk the fruit as it will damage or break off the fruiting spur. Some apples need to be eaten immediately or they will get soft and mushy. Many late varieties, however, will keep crisp and well into the winter. Try storing your apples in a paper bag, box, or breathable plastic to let them ripen and develop more flavor. I put mine in my unheated, un-insulated garage last year; some, like Honeycrisp and Newtown Pippin were crisp and firm (and very flavorful) in March (when I ate the last one. Also, don’t worry about picking before the first frost. The apples will not be damaged by a frost that kills the tomatoes and the flavor of those apples may be further developed and enhanced—ditto with carrots.

For folks who have seen rabbits, moles, voles, gophers, etc in their yards, you will want to put on a plastic tree guard or a wire guard (like ¼ inch hardware cloth) around the trunk. These are just for the winter and need to be removed in the spring. (If not removed in May, earwigs will nest inside the plastic and the tree will grow into the wire). You will also want to trap or otherwise eradicate these pests that eat the bark and or roots this winter.

Hope you are all enjoying the fall.

Michael
9/27/08

Desert Land Act - youtube reply

Inspirational to say the least.
In the US the government declared, in 1877, that certain states with desert lands must distribute up to 640 acres per person or group for the purpose of reclaiming the desert. Several states were enlisted into this program and must distribute 1 million acres per state. Most of the people simply made watering holes and kept livestock or farmed it for a short period of time until they could prove they properly irrigated it then sold the land. It’s disgusting but so many entrepreneurs have cheated the system so far. Corporations had to be excluded because of it.
At any rate if it can work in Jordan it could Work in Arizona or Nevada and the land, if you prove you can irrigate it and reclaim at least 1/8th of it in 4 years time, can be purchased for $1.25 per acre up to 320 acres. The downfall is you have to jump through some hoops to find the right piece of land. With permaculture I think that this could be very beneficial for the land and very profitable for the farmer.
Co-op’s, especially, can benefit from this and in Nevada you don’t have to be a resident to claim land via the Desert Land Act.
Comment by Robert — August 26, 2008 @ 9:02 am

Agroforestry and permaculture articles

Agroforestry articles/blogs/essays

TMPermaculture in the news

Permaculture in RGJ

Melons - how to tell they're ready to harvest

Melons
When trying to determine a melon’s ripeness, look at the condition of the stem and skin color. Cantaloupes “slip” from the vine, leaving a scar where the stem was attached. The bottom, or end opposite the stem, will be soft and fragrant. Their straw-colored skin should be bright. A ripe honeydew may remain attached to the vine, but should also be soft on the bottom side, opposite the stem. While on the vine, watermelons will have a small, curled tendril extending from the vine opposite from where the stem is attached to the vine. This tendril will turn brown and dry out when the melon is ripe. The stem should still be green and difficult to remove from the vine. The skin touching the ground should be buttery yellow. All melons continue to ripen after they have been removed from the vine, and should be stored in the refrigerator or a cool place.

From an article by Leslie Allen, Aug. 16 for Aug. 23, 2007 publication in the Reno Gazette-Journal

How to tell a melon is ready to harvest

Watermelon is ready to harvest when:

"the small leaf and curlyque located at the top of the stem is dry"

"The underside of the fruit that makes contact with the ground turns from white to buttery yellow"

"Thump the watermelon - "ping" is unripe, "pong" is ripe, dull "thud" is too late.

2008 watermelons imature in September. Start 6-8 weeks before last frost -- mid-April to early May

Delane's codling moth bug juice recipe

Bug juice recipe

1/3 cup molasses
1 cup apple cider
1/8 tsp ammonia
Enough water to make 1 ½ qt

Mix all together. Cut recycled bottle to create large opening in side of the bottle, leaving enough wall to make about 1 ½ inch well to contain juice. Fill about ½ inch full, then hang the bottle in the tree. One bottle per tree.

Meets organic standards

Beat the garden heat

Beat the heat article

Tree fact sheet

http://www.winrock.org/fnrm/factnet/factpub/factsh.htm

Lettuce - grow it under shade

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Grow-It/Growing-Lettuce-Under-Shade-Cloth.aspx?blogid=1502&utm_medium=email&utm_source=iPost

Apple trees - September

Cooler temperatures mean less evaporation and transpiration, so check your soil moisture and adjust watering time/volume.

Some apple varieties are beginning to ripen. A ripe apple will have dark brown to black pips (seeds), comes off the tree easily when slightly twisted, and yields to the pressure of the end of your thumb when squeezed.

Many apple trees are starting to drop of their fruit now. Some are ripe, but many have codling moth damage. Remember, apples that have lain on the ground or in the grass for more than 24 hours may contain bacteria in and on them. Windfall apples are not safe to eat raw or to make cider.

Apples that have fallen and been on the ground for more than a day should be picked up and disposed of as they may still contain the codling moth larvae. The best way to limit future codling moth damage is to remove fallen, damaged apples a soon as possible after they fall. So, rake up those fallen apples a couple of times a week and dispose of them. I will clean up the fallen apples, then check twice daily for windfalls to use for pies.

For those of you who would like to taste different varieties of apples, you might want to plan a trip over the hill to Placerville or Sebastopol. The Sebastopol area has several orchards and roadside stands with Gravensteins (the area specialty) and several other varieties of apples. The Sebastopol crop ripens early but should still have apples now; try http://www.kozlowskifarms.com/ for more info. The town also hosts a cider maker http://www.acecider.com/.

In September and October, join the crowd (hordes on weekends) at Apple Hill near Placerville. Numerous orchards have pies, cider (fresh juice), lunches, and many varieties of apples. The larger places stand out, but try some of the smaller growers on the back roads. If you’re able to get away on a weekday, you will avoid the crowds, but Apple Hill is a worthwhile trip even on a Saturday or Sunday. Be sure to try an Arkansas Black, a Mutsu, and an Esopus Spitzenburg. For more info, go to http://www.applehill.com/.

For those readers who have lawns, fertilize in mid September to help grass promote root growth for the winter.

Local graywater regulations

Washoe County - www.co.washoe.nv.us/health/ehs/regulations.html and click on Sewage, Wastewater and Sanitation. Page 66

Late blooming wildlife friendly plants

From National Wildlife Federation August 2008 newsletter:

Hummingbird trumpet (also known as California fuchsia): “They’re not neat and tidy plants, but hummingbirds love them,” says Barbara Fick, an Oregon State University extension horticulturist. The orange-red tubular flowers of this perennial, Epilobium canum, look especially attractive sprawling across slopes. Fick says these fuchsias, which are native from Oregon south to California and New Mexico, are drought tolerant.

Blazing stars: “Hands down, these are among the best nectar sources for butterflies,” says Bob Hendrickson, the Nebraska Statewide Arboretum’s assistant director of horticulture programs. About 40 species of blazing star, also known as gayfeather and by the genus name of Liatris, are native to the midwestern and eastern United States; several of them flower in autumn. “Dotted gayfeather is one of the last to bloom,” says Hendrickson, who also recommends rough gayfeather. Southern blazing star is another late performer.

Grow carrots

Mother Earth News article Aug/Sept 2008 pg. 30.

Easy freezing method for peaches - Mother Earth News

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Relish/Freezing-Peaches.aspx?utm_source=iPost&utm_medium=email&blogid=1508

Bees article from Mother Earth News

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Organic-Gardening/2005-08-01/Protect-Your-Pollinators.aspx

Find average first frost and when to plant fall veggies

Know When to Plant What: Find Your Average First Fall Frost Date
7/30/2008 8:04:48 AM
By Barbara Pleasant
Tags: first fall frost, fall harvest crops, fall gardens, autumn harvests

To determine your optimum dates for sowing fall crops, add three weeks to the days to maturity ratings listed below or shown on your seed packs to compensate for days that are getting shorter. Then count back from your average first fall frost date to find the date you should sow each crop. (To find your average first fall frost date, search by state in the tables provided by the National Climatic Data Center.) Cool-season plants will continue to grow a little after nights turn chilly, but they will make most of their new growth early on, while the weather is still warm.

Many of the best crops of fall — including salad greens and various cabbage cousins — will refuse to germinate in soil warmer than 85 degrees, so the seeds are best started indoors (on a 90-degree day, surface soil temperatures may actually be 110 degrees or more). The procedure for growing seedlings is the same as in spring (see Seed Starting Basics), but care for transplanted seedlings requires some extra hardware. Insect pressure in late summer is severe, so use homemade or purchased lightweight row covers to exclude critters. (See The No-Spray Way to Protect Plants) It helps to shade each seedling with a light-colored flowerpot, pail or other cover for two to three days after transplanting. Protected from scorching sun, the seedlings can concentrate on growing reliable roots.

Cabbage and broccoli seedlings need to be planted at least eight weeks before the first fall frost, and as long as their roots are kept moist, they seem to benefit from a spell of hot weather as late summer days become shorter. When set out so late that they miss the last warm spells, cabbage cousins tend to stop growing too soon. Whether you’re working with seedlings you grew yourself or bought at a store, get them in the ground as soon as you can.

FALL HARVEST CROPS
Days to Maturity

beets 55 to 60
broccoli 70 to 80
Brussels sprouts 90 to 100
cauliflower 55 to 65
cabbage 70 to 80
carrots 85 to 95
Chinese cabbage 75 to 85
cilantro 50 to 55 (leaf); 90 to 105 (coriander seed)
collard greens 60 to 100
daikon radishes 60 to 75
green beans 50 to 60
green onions 50 to 60
kale 40 to 50
kohlrabi 50 to 60
leeks 100 to 120
lettuce (leaf) 40 to 50
lettuce (head) 70 to 85
mustard greens 30 to 40
onions (seeds) 130 to 150
onions (sets) 60 to 80
peas 50 to 60
radishes 25 to 30
rutabaga 70 to 80
spinach 50 to 60
Swiss chard 30 to 50
turnips 55 to 60

Article from Mother Earth News August 2008

Fruit tree care - August

August Tree Care 2008

August is the time to check for pear sawfly (cherry slug) damage, ground falls, and dry soil.

If you have cherry trees, you will want to check for pear sawfly larvae damage. Although a pest of all fruit trees, cherry trees seem to be especially susceptible in northern Nevada. Examine the leaves on your cherry tree for leaf damage evidenced by the upper surface of the leaf is gone leaving only the brown skeletal veins. Then look on the leaves for a small (3/8 inch long and 1/8 inch wide), slimy, dark brown to black, little slug—the larva of the pear sawfly (a small wasp).

If the damage is extensive (more than 20 % of the leaves effected) and the larvae are still present, take action. I generally will spray with Sevin. Organic methods include picking them off by hand (yuck) or sprayed off with a water hose. If unchecked, the larvae will strip the leaves on a large portion of the tree and severely damage the tree if not kill it.

I have noticed apples dropping off trees early this year; these are called ground falls. Most of the apples that fall off the trees before they are ripe do so because of codling moth damage or watering problems. Ground falls should be removed and disposed of as soon as possible as they may still contain codling moth larvae or pupae. If the apples have been on the ground more than 24 hours, do not consume them as (harmful) bacteria have likely started to bloom in them. If you have ground falls, clean up under the tree and dispose of the damaged apples. Then, each day, pick up the falls in the morning and evening; when you have enough for a pie, cut out the damaged portions and use.

Check your soil moisture by digging a small hole just beyond the drip line of the tree; the soil should be moist but not soggy. If the soil is hard and dry, increase watering. You will also want to check the moisture in your garden and yard as well.

Now is the time to apply Bt to tomatoes to kill the tomato hornworm before one eats one of your tomato plants for dinner. Buy a small container; it goes a long way. I mix and apply with a sprinkler can.

Michael
8/3/08

National Wildlife Watch program

http://www.nwf.org/wildlifewatch/

National Wildlife Backyard Habitat certification

Transaction Date
July 25, 2008 08:51am

Transaction Amount
$65.00

Planning for fruit trees

http://www.oasisdesign.net/landscaping/fruittrees.htm

Nevada-friendly plant information

http://heritage.nv.gov/nnps.htm

http://heritage.nv.gov/nnpscult.htm

http://www.blm.gov/nv/st/en.html

http://www.nativeseednetwork.org/

http://plants.usda.gov/dl_state.html

July tree care

July Tree Care 08

Codling Moth Alert --I returned to Reno yesterday to a full trap, so we have had our second mating frenzy and the hatch should be starting soon. Plan to apply your first spray by this weekend and another a week later. That should take care of Round 2. Folks in Winnemucca, Paradise, and cooler areas can delay another week.

(Iron) Chlorosis—Many areas of northern Nevada have alkaline soils; of course, apples, fruit trees, and in fact most plants, like somewhat acidic soils around 6.5. You may notice that our trees have yellow leaves with dark green veins; if so, your trees are suffering from chlorosis or iron deficiency.

Although the soil likely contains plenty of iron, the high pH of the soil prevents the uptake of iron (Fe) into the plant. Two strategies will solve this problem.

The first, quick-fix strategy is to apply iron sulfate or chelated iron to the leaves when chlorosis appears. Iron sulfate products are available most nurseries; it comes as a powder or a liquid and can also be applied with a sprayer attached to a hose. Use these products per label instructions.

The second and long-term strategy is to lower the pH of the soil by adding agricultural sulfur and mulching. First determine the pH of your soil. Cooperative extension no longer does soil sampling. I use A&L Western Labs http://www.al-labs-west.com/ in California. They will send you a bag and instructions (tell them you’re a homeowner or you’ll get a box of bags for the entire 2000 acre farm…). Costs are about $30; opt for the extra $1 for interpretation/recommendations.

Agricultural sulfur is available in 50 lb. bags (about $10) in Reno at Verdicon, 5355 Capital Court, 358-6166. It is sold as Simplot Tiger 90; 90% sulphur, 10 % bentonite clay. The clay makes an even-sized pellet for easy spreading and quick breakdown.

Water—If you have a drip system, you will want to monitor and probably adjust the system to water more/longer as the weather heats up. Again, don’t over water; check the soil below the drip line of the tree to determine if you’re watering properly.

Caterpillars—Start watching for leaf rollers and other caterpillars. These caterpillars will start on the edge of the leaf and roll it up to form their cocoon. When you notice these, use Bt to control them. Bt (thankfully shorthand for Bacillus thuringiensis) is a bacterium that does to caterpillars what contaminated water does to gringos, only worse. It is a certified organic product. Buy the smallest container as you only need about 1 tsp per quart. Also, buy a small spray bottle or mister to use exclusively for Bt; wash out the spray container after each use—the bacteria multiply and can create a real stink after a week of confinement. Bt works on all leaf-eating caterpillars. Follow label instructions.

If you have tomatoes, spray them with Bt the last weekend in July as the green tomato hornworm appears around the 1st of August.

Washington State University organic agriculture certification

http://online.wsu.edu/future_students/dc_organic_ag.aspx

Compost/Wormcast tea brewer and tea making instructions

Instructions for making a compost/wormcast tea brewer

Sheet mulch mushrooms

These might be Dung mushrooms. Started showing up in May and as of today, June 16, 2008 new mushrooms grow each day. Emerge from the sheet mulch in the early morning and are dried out by late afternoon; new mushrooms the next day.

Mystery mass in our sheet mulch

ANSWER: This is fuligo septica, common name is dog vomit slime mold or scrambled egg slime mold. See here and here for more info.

Does anybody know what this is? It grew overnight in the sheet mulch. It looks solid but is the consistency of cream of wheat. By late afternoon it had dried to a thin red slab. It's sort of weird!

What is it?

Is its presence a good sign or a bad sign?

Should I leave it in the sheet mulch or remove it?

Permaculture - Concrete to food and wildlife

June activities

Now we can direct sow most vegetable seeds including, lettuce, cucumbers, squash, and corn. Arugula lovers will want to make a last spring sowing of the standard rocket and plant the narrow leaved Italian wild Arugula for summer use. Chop and add a generous handful of either arugula to tomato based pasta sauces. The flavors mellow for a delicious sauce.

Basil has been transplanted to both ground and containers. My main crop of basil comes from direct sowing in July when the soil is nice and warm. The seedlings take off quickly and I just have to remember to space my seeds at least an inch apart and then thin the plants so they're spaced 6" to 8" apart. These plants are for pesto, slurries of leaves frozen into ice cube trays, used in summer sandwiches instead of lettuce. They never reach maximum size because we steadily harvest.

Basil

Basil has been transplanted to both ground and containers. My main crop of basil comes from direct sowing in July when the soil is nice and warm. The seedlings take off quickly and I just have to remember to space my seeds at least an inch apart and then thin the plants so they're spaced 6" to 8" apart. These plants are for pesto, slurries of leaves frozen into ice cube trays, used in summer sandwiches instead of lettuce. They never reach maximum size because we steadily harvest.

Garlic scapes (early flower buds)

Eat those emerging garlic flowers but do it early -- Mother Earth News.
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Real-Food/2005-10-01/Garlic-Scapes.aspx?utm_source=iPost&utm_medium=email

Ground cherries

Ordered 4 altogether; anticipate loosing all to cold night temperatures (May 2008 and about 45 to 50 degrees at night) because put them out too soon. Next year grow from seed and plant in mid to late June when the are about 10" across.

Ground cherry plants should be grown in a warm areas and receive plenty of sunlight, so choose a sunny location in the garden. Ground cherries grow very similar to tomatoes, but grow more quickly. The fruit grow inside husk. Relocate your plants in different parts of your garden each year to avoid diseases. Optimum temperatures for growing ground cherries are between 65 F and 85 F. Plant your seeds indoors 3 to 6 weeks before setting outside. When seedlings are 4" tall, transplant them in larger pots. Plants should be at least 10" tall before transplanting outdoors. Place plants outdoors in shady area several days before transplanting outdoors. Shelter the transplants to prevent sunburn, wilting, and rain damage. Spring planting should occur when soil is warm, at least 3 weeks after last frost, and when temperatures remain above 70 F. You can plant early if you use water towers. To protect plant branches from breaking, use 4 to 5 ft tall cages. Plants can grow 2 to 6 ft tall.
Type rest of the post here

Dwarf Meyer Lemon care, pruning and training

Dwarf Meyer Lemon potted May 23, 2008

Regarded by many as the favorite backyard citrus tree, the Meyer lemon was introduced to the United States from China by Dutch plant explorer Frank Meyer. Meyer traveled to China several times during the early 1900s and introduced this country to hundreds of new plant species. Thought to be a cross between an acidic lemon and a mandarin, this thin-skinned and slightly sweet cousin to the lemon settled in subtropical citrus-growing regions of the United States.

For many years, the Meyer lemon was considered more of an ornamental oddity and mainly thrived in people's yards. People living outside the citrus belt didn't have the chance to acquaint themselves with this new lemon variety because its thin skin and delicate structure made it virtually impossible to distribute commercially.

Around the same time, a man by the name of Floyd Dillon had moved to Northern California to try his hand at the dwarf wholesale nursery business, according to his great-grandson, Aaron Dillon, a fourth-generation grower at Four Winds Growers in Fremont. Fortuitously, a woman living in nearby Brentwood contacted him about a beautiful Meyer lemon tree that she had growing in her yard. And, with these buds, Dillon propagated the Meyer for several years.

In the 1960s, with the threat of eradicating all Meyers because of a citrus tristeza virus that could harm the commercial citrus industry, the California Department of Agriculture screened all supposed clean stock and concluded that Four Winds Growers had the only virus-free selections. Aaron Dillon says, "This plant, that can be traced back to Floyd Dillon, became the source for all bud wood used for the Improved Meyer lemon program."

Today, Four Winds Growers is California's, if not the nation's, leader in the selling and propagating of dwarf Improved Meyer lemon trees. Their nationwide distribution, coupled with the Improved Meyer's growing popularity in restaurants and home kitchens, will hopefully have a positive impact on its future. It also doesn't hurt that it's an amazingly easy fruit tree to grow.

Cultivation: The dwarf Improved Meyer lemon can be planted in the ground in warmer regions of California or in a large container where the threat of frost is present (so that it can be sheltered if necessary). As with other citrus, amend the soil with 4 to 6 inches of organic matter in the hole; or, use a high-quality potting soil for your container. Apply a 2-inch layer of mulch after planting to protect roots.

Meyers are hungry trees since they can bloom and fruit simultaneously. Feed monthly, year round, with a granular or liquid fertilizer specially formulated for citrus plants. Maximize the absorption rate by feeding a couple of hours after watering. And, don't forget to water thoroughly, possibly daily during the summer months if planted in pots.

Since the dwarf Improved Meyer typically doesn't exceed 8 feet, it's a great tree to espalier against a south-facing fence or wall. By growing on a trellis or similar structure, these sweet lemons can be harvested easily and can provide a screen from an undesirable view. Remove unwanted pests such as aphids and mealybugs with a blast of water or non-toxic insecticidal soap.

Improved Meyers have a compact growing habit and don't need to be pruned, but suckers growing below the bud union should be removed so that the tree can remain healthy and produce superior fruit. Ripening can take up to a year and the fruit will continue to mature and turn a deep yellow-orange color until picked.

Grapes

What kind did I get from Leslie? TABLE, UNKNOWN VARIETY


Three grape growing stumbling blocks

Good grape growing tip website

Minnesota Midget melon

Muskmelon


Extra early. Vines seldom over 3' long. Round fruits are 3½" to 4", thick golden-yellow flesh. An excellent choice where space is limited Edible to the rind, high sugar content. Resistant to fusarium wilt. Introduced by U of MN in 1948. 60-75 days.

Cantaloupes, muskemelons, honeydew, snake melon, and Armenian cucumbers will cross pollinate so isolate.

Prescott Fond Blanc

Catagorized as a cantaloupe or rock melon
Unique French melon documented before 1850. Fruits weigh 4-9 pounds and have beautifully warted skin and dense, sweet flesh. The fragrance when fully ripe is incredible. Will not slip when ripe, like all rock melons. Incredibly beautiful. Good drought tolerance. 85-95 days.

http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/hgic1304.htm

Uncommon fruit

Juneberry - bush or tree
Beach Plum - yellow varieties are less astringent-needs good drainage- notable for lack of consistant production
White alpine strawberries - birds ignore them-grows at the edge of woods
Paw Paw - grows in the shade of other trees-spreads through shoots-bark, seeds, and unripe fruits have been found to contain powerful pesticides and antitumor agents-flowers open late so rarely get frosted-produces far more blossoms than fruit

Cornelian Cherry - zone 4-8; 15-25 ft high; eat fruit out of hand or make into wine or preserves.

Carmine Cherry -"According to a publication put out by the dept of agriculture in British Columbia. "Cherries require 750 to 1400 hours between 0° and 7° Celsius as a rest period, during which trees cannot break bud" Prunus X Carmine
A new addition to the prairie hardy cherry selection. This cultivar is a combination of the Prunus cerasus and Prunus fruiticosa making it an excellent dwarf sour cherry. Self fertile and extremely cold hardy. Fruit has dark skin and flesh with a hard pit. May be pruned to a small tree or shrub shape. Eat fresh, use in preserves or wine. Excellent fruit producer and landscaping selection.
Height: 2m / 6 feet Spread: 1m /3 feet Flowers: White

Greywater

Using greywater

Rain water barrel

Greywater Guerillas - underground greywater movement

Brad Lancaster's greywater site

Arizona greywater guidelines brochure

Container blueberries

Containter blueberries at http://www.raintreenursery.com/catalog/productdetails.cfm?productid=E290

SPIN

Explore this.

http://www.spinfarming.com/

Swales

Question: How do you determine where to put swales when your property is essentially flat?

It is always amazing to me to see how not flat property is that you
perceive to be flat. Finding the contour is easy and fun with an
A-Frame. We could demonstrate this at the next meeting for those not
familiar with how it is done. Aside from finding the contour you need
to consider where you get runoff from surfaces like driveways, patios,
roofs, etc. and you can use swales to capture and direct that water
where you want it to infiltrate.

Kim

Llama manure

Question to TMP: Does anyone have any experience with llama manure?

Llama is awesome manure, highly desired. I believe it is one of the few manures you can plant in before it is "cured", not considered hot manure. There is a guy here in Nevada City that sells it.

Cathe'

Feeding chickens

Neil,
I buy organic grains in bulk.
Right now we have wheat, rye, barley, oats and sunflower seeds.
I soak these...at least overnight... and sometimes I put old yogurt or kefir in the soak water.

I also sprout the grain so that they get greens.

When I am not around, some of the other community members will grind the grains.

We also give them our household and community kitchen food wastes, including meat. Recently, I have given the chickens old beef soup (they love it), old milk (they love it) and the clean outs from my refrigerator.

I understand from talking to old timers that 100 years ago...the milk from the family cow was split into 4 portions:
1 for the family table
1 to sell
1 to make family foods
1 for the farm animals including poultry

Mother Earth News had an awesome article last year comparing the quality of the egg to the food the chickens were fed. Soy fed chicken eggs have pale yellow yolks with very runny whites and nutrient dense fed chickens produce bright orange yolks that stand up high above 2 layers of whites that are thick.

Mollison talks about growing chicken feed around the chicken coop as a perennial polyculture. Here is Scott Pittman's version:


Partial Chicken pasture plant list:

Nanking cherry
Sand Cherry
Siberian Pea Shrub
Day Lily
Apple
Plum
Raspberry
Mulberry
Black Locust
Sea Buckthorn
Pasture Grass
Alfalfa
Apricot
Strawberry clover
Brassicas
Hairy Vetch
Comfrey

Harvey Ussery who is a permaculturist and writes for Organic Gardening has a website
www.themodernhomestead.us/ Harvey is doing great work researching poultry feed, as part of reducing our addiction to "fast feed" -store bought poultry feed made with manufacturing byproducts. Even organic chicken feed has soy as a major ingredient...which causes chicken health problems.
Harvey's webpage on poultry.
www.themodernhomestead.us/article/Poultry.html

Here is what Harvey says on

Feeding the Homestead Flock
*Table of Contents for Feeding Section is at bottom of this page.*
My advice on feeding the homestead flock can be boiled down to:

Take the feeding of your flock into your own hands. Don't be "buffaloed" by the "experts" and their feeding solutions based on highly flawed paradigms.

Try to feed your birds the way a chicken on her own in the wild would feed herself. The key to homesteading success is imitation of natural systems. That should be the key when we think about feeding as well.

I suggest that you read the articles in this section in the order in which they appear.

"Feeding the Homestead Flock: It Ain't Rocket Science!" poses the fundamental question: Do we blindly trust the dictates of ag college scientists and agribusiness, or seek more natural, wholesome (and more independent) ways to feed our flocks?

"Making Your Own Poultry Feeds" is a guide to how I have made my own prepared feeds in the past, as a direct substitution for the feeds of commerce. It is a bit dated now, but there is a lot of information about ingredients and principles you should consider if making your own mixes.

"Feeding the Flock from the Homestead's Own Resources" is about finding ways to offer our flocks a more natural diet, in the process gaining greater independence by reducing purchased inputs.

"Current Feeding Practice" is here because feeding is always for me a moving target. I am always striving for more natural feeding, and for greater resource independence, and this article explains where those efforts have led me.

www.themodernhomestead.us/article/Feeding.html

Table of Contents for Feeding Section
"Feeding the Homestead Flock: It Ain't Rocket Science!"
"Making Your Own Poultry Feeds"
"Feeding the Flock from the Homestead's Own Resources"
"Alternatives to Soy"
"Sprouting to Enhance Poultry Feeds"
"Raising Earthworms to Feed the Flock"
"Protein from Thin Air: Breeding fly maggots for poultry feed"
"Current Feeding Practice"
Cathe'

On Tue, Mar 4, 2008 at 9:57 AM, Neil Bertrando wrote:

Thanks for the input Cathe,
can you tell the group what you feed your chickens, so we can get an idea of what we're looking at? In particular, how can we ensure full nutrition during the winter months when bugs and greens are scarce?
thanks again,
Neil

On Tue, Mar 4, 2008 at 9:39 AM, Cathe' at Practical Permaculture wrote:

Neil,

about the feed...

Purina uses GMO corn and soy as their main ingredients.

To me, that makes for "unhealthy" chickens.

I guess it is a judgment call.

Cathe'


On Mon, Mar 3, 2008 at 2:15 PM, Neil Bertrando wrote:

Hi all,
i found a source for chicken manure that will be consistent at least through this growing season and winter. some details for clarification before the go ahead just to make sure it's what we want.

1. the lady who's giving it away lives in cold springs
2. she cleans out the coop once every 4-6 weeks
3. each cleaning provides 1.5-2 wheelbarrows of chicken manure
4. the chickens are fed a diet of table scraps, Purina egg layer, and a generic scratch egg layer

she was really nice on the phone and this sounds like a good resource especially for anyone who lives near cold springs. my only concern is with the feed.

Can any of the experienced chicken people in the guild share their opinions on whether the feed would compromise the manure?

My initial feeling is that as long as it's run through a compost pile first (i.e. used to heat up a mix of chicken manure, leaves and straw) it will be great. if it's not run through a compost pile it might still be great if let sit to age and cool before application to beds or if mixed in with carbon rich mulch like wood chips. Any experience and knowledgeable advice would be great. If it's a green light, I'll go ahead and pick up the manure or pass on the number to anyone who really needs some manure now.

cheers,
Neil




Type rest of the post here

Mushrooms

Question to TMP: Can we grow mushrooms in Nevada?

At the last 2 Practical Permaculture classes, we have drilled logs and put mushroom spawn plugs into the logs ( reishi for the last class in Nevada City on oak, white oyster the ChIco class because we had trash wood).Then beeswax over the hole.

Paul Stamens sez to keep them somewhere where they won't freeze (like a shed or garage) until warmer weather comes. So I think the answer is yes, for Reno.

Cathe'

_____________________________________________________

At work we had a great mushroom workshop with Cheetah Chudi (sp?) and
afterwards did a few mushroom trials. We were able to grow nice
oyster mushrooms in a large plant pot (25 gal) filled with fresh wood
chips. We put mushroom spawn on a straw substrate during the workshop
and used that. It grew lovely mushrooms. We kept it on the shady
side of a building and cut a round of cardboard to 'cap' it and keep
it dark and moist. The logs with the plugs in them are a real act of
faith...gotta keep them for a long time before anything happens.
We're still waiting. :)

Kim
_____________________________________________________

Mushroom beds are best made up of woodchip from a single tree variety which will be hard to come by in Nevada; consider make a bed made of paper products (library or RGJ) or corncobs (Rick?).

The ideal substrate is made up of wood product consisting of fine and larger particles (imperative for healthy mycelium growth) – 2 parts fine, 1 part larger (1 to 4 inches)

A good substrate can also be made of a mix of woody debris, chopped corncobs and cornstalks, stalks of garden vegetables, and berry and grape vines – make sure material is chopped up into both fine and larger pieces (imperative for healthy mycelium growth).

Pleurotus species is best adapted to grow on agricultural waste but creating a bed with this type of product requires special equipment for pasteurization or sterilization.

Oyster Mushroom will grow on straw, which is less expensive than sterilized sawdust; performs better on vertical surfaces.

email from practicalpermaculture@gmail.com

If you want to grow mushrooms for your personal use...the other alternative is finding hardwood tree trunks, maybe from an arborist or tree pruning company locally. Don't use wood that has shed its bark. Surely you don't need to buy them.

Cut them about three feet long.

Let the wood age for about 3 weeks before inoculating.

Soak them in a trash can or a trash bag for a couple of days.

Ahead of time, purchase the spawn from Cheetah or Mushroom Adventure on Hwy 70 north of Marysville http://www.mushroomadventures.com/

or Paul Stamens http://www.fungi.com/plugs/index.html(Paul has the cheapest prices of the 2, maybe Cheetah is cheaper?)

Here is what the dowels look like www.mushroomadventures.com/dowel.html

If your wood is marginal, buy Oyster Spawn, as it will grow on even toilet paper.

You need about one bag or 35-50 dowels per log. Use a 5/16" drill l bit and mark the end with permanent marker at 2" (or whatever the grower says). Drill holes about 4" apart in a diamond pattern. The more plugs you use per log, the faster the wood will be colonized with mushroom mycelium. Tap in the dowel. Cover the hole/dowel with a couple drops of bees wax. Keep the log moist. This whole process should take about 20 minutes for innoculating a log.

Hardwood to use: All Oaks, and Tan Oak; Madrone, and Manzanita; Most fruitwood; Alder, Maple, Bay, Elm
Semi-Hardwood to use: Willow; Cottonwood; Poplar; Ash
Wood not to use: Redwood, Cedar; Fir (Phoenix Oyster will grow) and Pine; Conifers ( Conifer Coral mushroom will grow); Cypress, Juniper; Eucalyptus

Bird loving trees and plants

List of bird loving plants appropriate for Nevada - according to Mother Earth news Ask Our Experts article, it is better to grow bird-friendly plants than to put out lots of seed.

Hackberry, chokecherry, elderberr, Tartarian honeysuckle, mulberry, dogwood, Japanese barberry, red and black raspberries, viburnum, Hansen bush cherry, Russian olive, hawhorne, and sunflowers

Bird loving plants

Sunflower
Cupplant

Insect loving plants

Butterfly weed
Cupplant - holds rainwater for days; birds are quick to devour the seeds
Downy sunflower
Lupine - only food of the endangered Karner Blue Butterfly
New England aster
Purple coneflower
Red milkweed - preferred food source of Monarch caterpillars
Sun flower
Borage - honey bees

Lupine and the Karner Blue Butterfly

Lupine is the only food source for the larvae of this endangered butterfly.

Has deep taproot that penetrates the soil, leaving behind fine, friable soil; among the first plants to grow on barren pumice after a volcanic eruption.

Plant goes to sleep at night; some fold their leaves at night and others also when there is movement in the leaves.

Soil looseners

Redroot pigweed
Daikon radish

Ark of Taste 2008 garden

Christmas Bean
Bull Nose pepper
Fish pepper
Brandywine tomato
Moon & Stars Van Doren
Ground cherry
Ozette potatoes

Mason bees

Nest made of bamboo rather than paper straws.



Aardvark Paper Straws
Contact us via:
Phone: (260) 484-4111 ext. 228
Mon – Fri 7:30 am – 4:30 pm Eastern Time
Fax: (260) 483-0393
Email: sales@aardvarkstraws.com

For the Orchard Mason Bees, the galleries must be 5/16 inch diameter and a full 6 inches long. Plastic drinking straws of 1/4th inch and 5/16th inch diameters are easier to use. Just pack them into a straight sided container so that one end of each straw is tightly pressed against the bottom of the container. The straws should be fixed in place with tape so that the bundle does not move about in the weather. Attach these types of nesting blocks to garage sides or fences so that the galleries are horizontal, and get protection from rain and from sun during the hottest part of the day.

Mason bee cultivation instructions

More complex, perhaps scientific, nest construction instructions

Sorrel

Aspects: Clumping and running herb, edible greens, sun to shade, soils variable

Leaves have a strong lemony tang and delicate texture; add flavor to salads or cooked dishes, most famously cream of sorrel soup; where temperatures are cold sorrel is among first greens available in the spring and last in the fall; continually cut back flowering stalks to keep them producing tender greens long into the summer.

Tough and reliable; can become weedy; growing only male plants can minimize weediness (grow some plants from seed and rogue out all that produce female flowers and set seed); male plants will still experience temporarily diminished flavor when they flower.

Non-flowering variety name Profusion stays excellent all year long and doesn’t bolt or become weedy

Good companion plants because their roots dig deep and bring up calcium, phosphorus and potassium.

O. digyma or Mountain Sorrel – medium-sized clumps, rounded leaves that are large in partial shade, delicious flavor and texture

R. acetosa or Garden Sorrel/French Sorrel – one of the most commonly cultivated in the US. Tall, lance-shaped leaves with a flower spike that grows to 3 to 4 feet tall. Non- flowering variety, Profusion, belongs to this species. To add to the confusion R. acetosella and R. scutatus are all known as French Sorrel.

CAUTION R. acetosella or Sheep Sorrel/French Sorrel – Very common weed in gardens. Naturalizes well in disturbed, dry, acidic soils. Author feels flavor as good as that of any cultivated species. Leaves are smaller and therefore more tedious to harvest; low growing and spreads aggressively by runners and seed. Plants make a useful groundcover but otherwise be vary careful where you introduce this species.

R. scutatus or Silver Shield Sorrel/Buckler-Leaf Sorrel/French Sorrel – This species has replaced garden sorrel as the sorrel of choice in France; they feel the flavor is superior and the author agrees; plants less vigorous than garden sorrel (take a few years to establish and don’t do well with competition); delicate flavor and texture; small leaves make for more work while harvesting

Few pests and diseases though wet weather can bring slugs, and leaf miners can be a problem

Seed or propagate by division; divide every few years to rejuvenate them

Leaves do not store well and should be eaten soon after harvest; eat fresh or cooked, mix with other greens to make a salad use in soup, sauces, and other dishes; cooks down dramatically so pick a lot

Smartweed family - rhubarb

Also called rhubarb; rheum rhabarbarum

Aspects: Clumping herb, edible leafstalks, edible flower buds, full sun, moist well drained soil

In Asia used in soups and stews; leafstalks usually cooked but also eaten raw in small amounts; flower buds can be eaten and have the texture of cauliflower but a strong sour flavor; eat flower buds and leafstalks in moderation

Well know that leaves and roots are poisonous

Heavy feeder that should be planted in rich soil amended frequently with compost well-rotted manure

Few pests or diseases but susceptible to anthracnose.

Propagate through division; grow from seed (expect wide variations in seedling flavor and leafstalk color); to maintain deep red stalks use vegetative propagation

Use in sauces or pies, or like tart celery

Bamboo

Aspects: Edible shoots, sun to partial shade, moist well drained soil

Bamboo are among the most useful plants in the world though they have a bad rep in the US and Canada for being aggressive spreaders.

Many bamboos spread aggressively but many form clumps, never spread, and produce edible shoots.

Clumping bamboos tend to have larger shoots (can weigh up to 20 pounds), are easier to harvest, and have a longer harvest season than runners; extremely productive

Substantially less hardy than runner types; flowering is a challenge because plants often do not survive flowering, due to huge amount of energy resources it uses; all individuals of the same clone will flower in the same year, even if it has been 100 years since they last flowered, so entire crop will die all at once.

Fresh shoots are vastly superior to the canned versions; crisp, crunch texture that assumes the flavor of ingredients they’re cooked with; high in vitamins and fiber, low in protein, carbohydrates and fats; certain varieties can taste like a cross between water chestnut and a crisp apple; ideal for salads

*Best edible shoot clumping bamboos for Northern Nevada. Consult American Bamboo Society for more info.

Bambusa multiplex – to 10 degrees, 33 ft max height, somewhat bitter

Bambusa oldhamii – to 15 degrees, 60 ft max height, excellent

Bambusa texitilis – to 5 degrees, 33 ft max height, somewhat bitter

Dendrocalamus asper – to 23 degrees, 100 ft max height, excellent, sweet enough to eat raw, especially when bagged or blanched to exclude light from the shoots; can produce 60 shoots each year with 2-3 pounds of edible core on each shoot.

Dendrocalamus beecheyana – to 15 degrees, 35 ft, excellent (Bambusa beecheyana)

Dendrocalamus laetiflorus – to 25 degrees, 75 ft, excellent, flowers sporadically, more frequently and with less damage so is a good choice if serious about growing bamboo shoots; plant multiple varieties of the same species or multiple species to ensure continuous production without loosing your crop to seed.

After a few years bamboo are self-mulching reducing weed problems; some problems from mites, scale insects, and leaf rollers

Propagation: easily by division though plants should be at least two years old and include a reasonable section of rhizome with good roots

Cultivation complicated – include info here only if seriously interested in bamboo in my yard

Shoot season can last up to six months; raw shoots have a shelf life of up to two weeks

To prepare shoots, strip off the leafy sheath covering them, about 50-070 percent of the shoot; cut into chunks and boil in salted water for 2-15 minutes; bitter-tasting species should be boiled in two changes of water; after boiling use in stir fries or other dishes

Black Bamboo (Phyllostachys nigra).
Description: A medium-sized bamboo with segmented culms that are green at first, and then turn black by the end of the first summer. The foliage of Black Bamboo is not nearly as dense as that of other bamboos in the genus Phyllostachys.

Native Habitat: Yangtze River valley, China. Actually a variety of Henon Bamboo (see above). For reasons only understood by botanists, in botanical nomenclature Black Bamboo is designated as the species and Henon Bamboo as a variety.

Size: Can grow to 40 feet with culms almost 2 inches in diameter. Typical size in the Southeast is 15-20 feet with 1-inch diameter culms. One of the least aggressive running bamboos.

Cold hardiness: Hardy to about 0 degrees F.

Culture: Plant in light to medium shade in a well-drained soil. Will grow in full sun with irrigation and good care. Grows slowly in deep shade.

Landscape use: Probably the best Phyllostachys for residential landscapes and refined situations. Makes a (relatively) easily controlled, translucent hedge or background.

Other notes: Fairly common throughout the Southeast, though usually somewhat expensive. Some clones of Black Bamboo have better black color than others. The "Hale" clone is highly valued for the consistency of its coloration, its smaller size, and its cold hardiness.

Varieties and related species: There are about 40 Phyllostachys bamboos native to China, and most of these are commercially available in the United States. The majority of the Phyllostachys species resemble Golden Bamboo in appearance.

Bamboo in the landscape:
Bamboos vary in size, shape and color! As evergreen plants, they can be used in a variety of situations: as low-growing groundcovers, in erosion control, as medium to very tall hedges or screens, as windbreaks, as large groves, or as specimen plants. They also make beautiful container plants!

Come check the Bamboo section at Berkeley Hort and for a better idea of what mature plants look like see the book Bamboos by C. Recht and M.F. Wetterwald, available in the store. Also, check out the clumping and gracefully arching "Mexican Weeping Bamboo" in our tropical-plants courtyard! Celebrate bamboo! And remember: "Bamboo bends, but does not break!"

Growing bamboo:
You can plant bamboo year-round in the Bay Area, but as with other plants Fall is the ideal planting time, with days still warm and rains to help them become well established. Dig a 2 by 2-foot hole, place the plant, and backfill with well-draining soil. Bamboo likes regular watering and fertilizing. It is best to thin out 4 to 5-year-old culms and trim the lower leaves to expose the canes.

Caring for bamboo:
Bamboo plants demand little care. Firstly, because of their vigorous growth, just as a lawn grass, to which they are related, they do benefit from regular watering and regular fertilizer applications. A fertilizer higher in Nitrogen is usually indicated and frequently lawn fertilizers are used (e.g. 16-6-8). Once the plant has achieved its mature size in about ten years, however, it will require much less fertilizer and watering, with several species being indeed drought tolerant. Mulching around the plant is also very beneficial. Compost, manure, or finely ground fir bark are all good choices (if you use manure, fertilizer applications are not necessary for that season).

Secondly, in order to maintain a healthy and beautiful bamboo plant, bamboos do ask for an often-neglected practice: pruning. In order to understand why and how they should be pruned, let's first understand:

How bamboo grows: Bamboo plants grow by producing new canes every year. In general, temperate (mostly running) bamboos, send up new canes in the spring, while tropical, clumping bamboos produce new canes later in the summer. The canes grow "telescopically", expanding vertically many feet up in just a month or two. After that each cane will start branching and leafing out. Similarly to asparagus shoots, each cane grows everything it has to grow and then stops. In the following years, each cane will only continue to branch and leaf out and color up (e.g. in Phyllostachys nigra, the Black Bamboo, canes turn from an initial green to their characteristic shiny black). As the plants develop and grow bigger, they are able to produce new, larger (taller and thicker) canes each year. And each individual cane will age and finally die in a period of several years.

Pruning off canes: Therefore, in a garden setting, canes that start looking old (with dried up leaves and discolored canes), at about 5 years of age, should be completely removed. As part of the annual maintenance, usually performed in early Spring, older canes are cut off at soil level. This provides room for new canes and, as is traditionally done in Asia, by careful thinning of the bamboo plant, the full beauty of each individual cane is revealed.

Mowing ground cover bamboos: The low-growing bamboos in the genus Pleiobastus, which form a spreading, dense ground cover, should be cut back to the ground every year, or at least every other year, just before the main Spring growth. This will produce a full set of new leaves. You can use a lawn mower, or strong hand shears, or a scythe to do it.