Fruit tree care

Best to plant trees in the fall; if not possible better to plant in the winter; spring and summer are the worst times to plant.

The average fruit tree generally require one inch of water per week; six to eight hours of sunlight; two watering things are important to remember -- one avoid letting the tree become so dry that it wilts--two, deep watering once a week will do more to develop deep roots than a little sprinkle every few days.

Young nonbearing trees need a weekly watering of about eight gallons; mulch about 6 inches deep; mature trees need roughly one gallon of water per square foot of root area; root area extends two to three feet beyond the branches.

Chill hours defined as number of hours below 45 degrees (600 in Nevada); an interruption of the chilling period can occur if winter temperatures climb above 60 degrees. Under theses conditions, degree units are actually subtracted from the chilling effect.

A tree planted near a stone patio with a south facing sun exposure may negatively effect chill needs.

Sexual parts of the flower develop before going dormant or into rest stage; while in the dormant stage the internal growth processes continue at a very slow pace. During this time the fruit tree needs to be subjected to a certain amount of time below 45 degrees (chill hours) or the fruit and leaf buds may not develop and open normally.

Fruit trees prefer a pH of 6.5 to 6.8; alkaline soils are more common in dry climates

Planting on a north facing slope may delay blooming and help avoid blossom drop due to late frosts. Plant orchard in burm with slope facing south.

The perfect planting site: gently rolling site with some protection from harsh winter winds and extreme temperatures; a growing season with at least 150 frost free days would allow for a wide choice of fruit varieties; sandy loam with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0 and good drainage; easy access to water; at least 8 hours of sunshine daily.

Apple, pear, and cherry trees need to be trained to a central leader, which requires removing all the side branches (see Backyard Orchardist)

Peaches, nectarines and plums need to be trained to the open center system (see Backyard Orchardist).

Once the trees are planted and pruned, wrap the trunk with a flexible plastic “mouse” guard; reasonably effective for rabbit protection. Use a size that is tall enough to protect the trunk as far up as the lowest scaffold. Leave in place only as long as the trunk diameter fills it.

Fruit trees are heavy nitrogen users – supplement annually with cover crops

Phosphorus (rock phosphate) necessary for root, seed and early leaf growth; apply to the soil ahead of planting

Potassium for production of fruit, roots, and disease resistance

Secondary necessary nutrients – calcium, magnesium (Epsom salt is one source), and sulfur; apply occasionally based on soil test results

Trace minerals – boron, copper, chlorine (?!), iron, manganese, molybdenum (?), zinc. Seaweed emulsion is a trace mineral source.

Backyard Orchardist recommends removing the fruit early during the first couple of years when pruning, and root and scaffolding development is most critical. Weight of the fruit might compromise the scaffolding structure. Goal is to develop about 24 inches per year of strong growth on each shoot.

Fruit trees allowed to follow their natural tendency and grow vertically will produce lower yeilds and may not produce at all.