Apple trees

The average fruit tree generally require one inch of water per week; six to eight hours of sunlight.

Planting on a north facing slope may delay blooming and help avoid blossom drop due to late frosts. Plant orchard in burm with slope facing south.

The perfect planting site: gently rolling site with some protection from harsh winter winds and extreme temperatures; a growing season with at least 150 frost free days would allow for a wide choice of fruit varieties; sandy loam with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0 and good drainage; easy access to water; at least 8 hours of sunshine daily.

Apple, pear, and cherry trees need to be trained to a central leader, which requires removing all the side branches (see Backyard Orchardist)

Peaches, nectarines and plums need to be trained to the open center system (see Backyard Orchardist).

Once the trees are planted and pruned, wrap the trunk with a flexible plastic “mouse” guard. Use a size that is tall enough to protect the trunk as far up as the lowest scaffold. Leave in place only as long as the trunk diameter fills it.

Paint the tree trunks white in Fall

Apple trees start developing fruit buds within the tissue the summer prior to the year in which the fruit becomes visible; developing June through March (rats! This means Raf’s tree won’t produce better fruit until 2010, provided care starts now.)

Average years to bearing: Standard - 8 years Dwarf - 3 to 6 years
Average yield per tree: Standard - 10 to 12 bushels Dwarf -1 to 6 bushels
Space needed per tree: Standard - 25 to 30 foot circle Dwarf - 6 to 15 foot circle
Average mature height: Standard - 25+ feet Dwarf - 6 to 20 feet
Days from bloom to harvest: 90 to 180 days
Pollination requirements: Cross pollinate with another apple
Most common pruning system: Central leader
Common insect pests: Curculio, codling moth, apple maggot
Useful life: Standard 50+ years Dwarf 20+ years
Suggested number of trees for family of four: 2 to 3
Bears fruit on spurs that are several years old