Wednesday, January 30, 2008
Sorrel
Aspects: Clumping and running herb, edible greens, sun to shade, soils variable
Leaves have a strong lemony tang and delicate texture; add flavor to salads or cooked dishes, most famously cream of sorrel soup; where temperatures are cold sorrel is among first greens available in the spring and last in the fall; continually cut back flowering stalks to keep them producing tender greens long into the summer.
Tough and reliable; can become weedy; growing only male plants can minimize weediness (grow some plants from seed and rogue out all that produce female flowers and set seed); male plants will still experience temporarily diminished flavor when they flower.
Non-flowering variety name Profusion stays excellent all year long and doesn’t bolt or become weedy
Good companion plants because their roots dig deep and bring up calcium, phosphorus and potassium.
O. digyma or Mountain Sorrel – medium-sized clumps, rounded leaves that are large in partial shade, delicious flavor and texture
R. acetosa or Garden Sorrel/French Sorrel – one of the most commonly cultivated in the US. Tall, lance-shaped leaves with a flower spike that grows to 3 to 4 feet tall. Non- flowering variety, Profusion, belongs to this species. To add to the confusion R. acetosella and R. scutatus are all known as French Sorrel.
CAUTION R. acetosella or Sheep Sorrel/French Sorrel – Very common weed in gardens. Naturalizes well in disturbed, dry, acidic soils. Author feels flavor as good as that of any cultivated species. Leaves are smaller and therefore more tedious to harvest; low growing and spreads aggressively by runners and seed. Plants make a useful groundcover but otherwise be vary careful where you introduce this species.
R. scutatus or Silver Shield Sorrel/Buckler-Leaf Sorrel/French Sorrel – This species has replaced garden sorrel as the sorrel of choice in France; they feel the flavor is superior and the author agrees; plants less vigorous than garden sorrel (take a few years to establish and don’t do well with competition); delicate flavor and texture; small leaves make for more work while harvesting
Few pests and diseases though wet weather can bring slugs, and leaf miners can be a problem
Seed or propagate by division; divide every few years to rejuvenate them
Leaves do not store well and should be eaten soon after harvest; eat fresh or cooked, mix with other greens to make a salad use in soup, sauces, and other dishes; cooks down dramatically so pick a lot
Smartweed family - rhubarb
Also called rhubarb; rheum rhabarbarum
Aspects: Clumping herb, edible leafstalks, edible flower buds, full sun, moist well drained soil
In Asia used in soups and stews; leafstalks usually cooked but also eaten raw in small amounts; flower buds can be eaten and have the texture of cauliflower but a strong sour flavor; eat flower buds and leafstalks in moderation
Well know that leaves and roots are poisonous
Heavy feeder that should be planted in rich soil amended frequently with compost well-rotted manure
Few pests or diseases but susceptible to anthracnose.
Propagate through division; grow from seed (expect wide variations in seedling flavor and leafstalk color); to maintain deep red stalks use vegetative propagation
Use in sauces or pies, or like tart celery
Aspects: Clumping herb, edible leafstalks, edible flower buds, full sun, moist well drained soil
In Asia used in soups and stews; leafstalks usually cooked but also eaten raw in small amounts; flower buds can be eaten and have the texture of cauliflower but a strong sour flavor; eat flower buds and leafstalks in moderation
Well know that leaves and roots are poisonous
Heavy feeder that should be planted in rich soil amended frequently with compost well-rotted manure
Few pests or diseases but susceptible to anthracnose.
Propagate through division; grow from seed (expect wide variations in seedling flavor and leafstalk color); to maintain deep red stalks use vegetative propagation
Use in sauces or pies, or like tart celery
Bamboo
Aspects: Edible shoots, sun to partial shade, moist well drained soil
Bamboo are among the most useful plants in the world though they have a bad rep in the US and Canada for being aggressive spreaders.
Many bamboos spread aggressively but many form clumps, never spread, and produce edible shoots.
Clumping bamboos tend to have larger shoots (can weigh up to 20 pounds), are easier to harvest, and have a longer harvest season than runners; extremely productive
Substantially less hardy than runner types; flowering is a challenge because plants often do not survive flowering, due to huge amount of energy resources it uses; all individuals of the same clone will flower in the same year, even if it has been 100 years since they last flowered, so entire crop will die all at once.
Fresh shoots are vastly superior to the canned versions; crisp, crunch texture that assumes the flavor of ingredients they’re cooked with; high in vitamins and fiber, low in protein, carbohydrates and fats; certain varieties can taste like a cross between water chestnut and a crisp apple; ideal for salads
*Best edible shoot clumping bamboos for Northern Nevada. Consult American Bamboo Society for more info.
Bambusa multiplex – to 10 degrees, 33 ft max height, somewhat bitter
Bambusa oldhamii – to 15 degrees, 60 ft max height, excellent
Bambusa texitilis – to 5 degrees, 33 ft max height, somewhat bitter
Dendrocalamus asper – to 23 degrees, 100 ft max height, excellent, sweet enough to eat raw, especially when bagged or blanched to exclude light from the shoots; can produce 60 shoots each year with 2-3 pounds of edible core on each shoot.
Dendrocalamus beecheyana – to 15 degrees, 35 ft, excellent (Bambusa beecheyana)
Dendrocalamus laetiflorus – to 25 degrees, 75 ft, excellent, flowers sporadically, more frequently and with less damage so is a good choice if serious about growing bamboo shoots; plant multiple varieties of the same species or multiple species to ensure continuous production without loosing your crop to seed.
Bamboo are among the most useful plants in the world though they have a bad rep in the US and Canada for being aggressive spreaders.
Many bamboos spread aggressively but many form clumps, never spread, and produce edible shoots.
Clumping bamboos tend to have larger shoots (can weigh up to 20 pounds), are easier to harvest, and have a longer harvest season than runners; extremely productive
Substantially less hardy than runner types; flowering is a challenge because plants often do not survive flowering, due to huge amount of energy resources it uses; all individuals of the same clone will flower in the same year, even if it has been 100 years since they last flowered, so entire crop will die all at once.
Fresh shoots are vastly superior to the canned versions; crisp, crunch texture that assumes the flavor of ingredients they’re cooked with; high in vitamins and fiber, low in protein, carbohydrates and fats; certain varieties can taste like a cross between water chestnut and a crisp apple; ideal for salads
*Best edible shoot clumping bamboos for Northern Nevada. Consult American Bamboo Society for more info.
Bambusa multiplex – to 10 degrees, 33 ft max height, somewhat bitter
Bambusa oldhamii – to 15 degrees, 60 ft max height, excellent
Bambusa texitilis – to 5 degrees, 33 ft max height, somewhat bitter
Dendrocalamus asper – to 23 degrees, 100 ft max height, excellent, sweet enough to eat raw, especially when bagged or blanched to exclude light from the shoots; can produce 60 shoots each year with 2-3 pounds of edible core on each shoot.
Dendrocalamus beecheyana – to 15 degrees, 35 ft, excellent (Bambusa beecheyana)
Dendrocalamus laetiflorus – to 25 degrees, 75 ft, excellent, flowers sporadically, more frequently and with less damage so is a good choice if serious about growing bamboo shoots; plant multiple varieties of the same species or multiple species to ensure continuous production without loosing your crop to seed.
After a few years bamboo are self-mulching reducing weed problems; some problems from mites, scale insects, and leaf rollers
Propagation: easily by division though plants should be at least two years old and include a reasonable section of rhizome with good roots
Cultivation complicated – include info here only if seriously interested in bamboo in my yard
Shoot season can last up to six months; raw shoots have a shelf life of up to two weeks
To prepare shoots, strip off the leafy sheath covering them, about 50-070 percent of the shoot; cut into chunks and boil in salted water for 2-15 minutes; bitter-tasting species should be boiled in two changes of water; after boiling use in stir fries or other dishes
Black Bamboo (Phyllostachys nigra).
Description: A medium-sized bamboo with segmented culms that are green at first, and then turn black by the end of the first summer. The foliage of Black Bamboo is not nearly as dense as that of other bamboos in the genus Phyllostachys.
Native Habitat: Yangtze River valley, China. Actually a variety of Henon Bamboo (see above). For reasons only understood by botanists, in botanical nomenclature Black Bamboo is designated as the species and Henon Bamboo as a variety.
Size: Can grow to 40 feet with culms almost 2 inches in diameter. Typical size in the Southeast is 15-20 feet with 1-inch diameter culms. One of the least aggressive running bamboos.
Cold hardiness: Hardy to about 0 degrees F.
Culture: Plant in light to medium shade in a well-drained soil. Will grow in full sun with irrigation and good care. Grows slowly in deep shade.
Landscape use: Probably the best Phyllostachys for residential landscapes and refined situations. Makes a (relatively) easily controlled, translucent hedge or background.
Other notes: Fairly common throughout the Southeast, though usually somewhat expensive. Some clones of Black Bamboo have better black color than others. The "Hale" clone is highly valued for the consistency of its coloration, its smaller size, and its cold hardiness.
Varieties and related species: There are about 40 Phyllostachys bamboos native to China, and most of these are commercially available in the United States. The majority of the Phyllostachys species resemble Golden Bamboo in appearance.
Bamboo in the landscape:
Bamboos vary in size, shape and color! As evergreen plants, they can be used in a variety of situations: as low-growing groundcovers, in erosion control, as medium to very tall hedges or screens, as windbreaks, as large groves, or as specimen plants. They also make beautiful container plants!
Come check the Bamboo section at Berkeley Hort and for a better idea of what mature plants look like see the book Bamboos by C. Recht and M.F. Wetterwald, available in the store. Also, check out the clumping and gracefully arching "Mexican Weeping Bamboo" in our tropical-plants courtyard! Celebrate bamboo! And remember: "Bamboo bends, but does not break!"
Growing bamboo:
You can plant bamboo year-round in the Bay Area, but as with other plants Fall is the ideal planting time, with days still warm and rains to help them become well established. Dig a 2 by 2-foot hole, place the plant, and backfill with well-draining soil. Bamboo likes regular watering and fertilizing. It is best to thin out 4 to 5-year-old culms and trim the lower leaves to expose the canes.
Caring for bamboo:
Bamboo plants demand little care. Firstly, because of their vigorous growth, just as a lawn grass, to which they are related, they do benefit from regular watering and regular fertilizer applications. A fertilizer higher in Nitrogen is usually indicated and frequently lawn fertilizers are used (e.g. 16-6-8). Once the plant has achieved its mature size in about ten years, however, it will require much less fertilizer and watering, with several species being indeed drought tolerant. Mulching around the plant is also very beneficial. Compost, manure, or finely ground fir bark are all good choices (if you use manure, fertilizer applications are not necessary for that season).
Secondly, in order to maintain a healthy and beautiful bamboo plant, bamboos do ask for an often-neglected practice: pruning. In order to understand why and how they should be pruned, let's first understand:
How bamboo grows: Bamboo plants grow by producing new canes every year. In general, temperate (mostly running) bamboos, send up new canes in the spring, while tropical, clumping bamboos produce new canes later in the summer. The canes grow "telescopically", expanding vertically many feet up in just a month or two. After that each cane will start branching and leafing out. Similarly to asparagus shoots, each cane grows everything it has to grow and then stops. In the following years, each cane will only continue to branch and leaf out and color up (e.g. in Phyllostachys nigra, the Black Bamboo, canes turn from an initial green to their characteristic shiny black). As the plants develop and grow bigger, they are able to produce new, larger (taller and thicker) canes each year. And each individual cane will age and finally die in a period of several years.
Pruning off canes: Therefore, in a garden setting, canes that start looking old (with dried up leaves and discolored canes), at about 5 years of age, should be completely removed. As part of the annual maintenance, usually performed in early Spring, older canes are cut off at soil level. This provides room for new canes and, as is traditionally done in Asia, by careful thinning of the bamboo plant, the full beauty of each individual cane is revealed.
Mowing ground cover bamboos: The low-growing bamboos in the genus Pleiobastus, which form a spreading, dense ground cover, should be cut back to the ground every year, or at least every other year, just before the main Spring growth. This will produce a full set of new leaves. You can use a lawn mower, or strong hand shears, or a scythe to do it.
Propagation: easily by division though plants should be at least two years old and include a reasonable section of rhizome with good roots
Cultivation complicated – include info here only if seriously interested in bamboo in my yard
Shoot season can last up to six months; raw shoots have a shelf life of up to two weeks
To prepare shoots, strip off the leafy sheath covering them, about 50-070 percent of the shoot; cut into chunks and boil in salted water for 2-15 minutes; bitter-tasting species should be boiled in two changes of water; after boiling use in stir fries or other dishes
Black Bamboo (Phyllostachys nigra).
Description: A medium-sized bamboo with segmented culms that are green at first, and then turn black by the end of the first summer. The foliage of Black Bamboo is not nearly as dense as that of other bamboos in the genus Phyllostachys.
Native Habitat: Yangtze River valley, China. Actually a variety of Henon Bamboo (see above). For reasons only understood by botanists, in botanical nomenclature Black Bamboo is designated as the species and Henon Bamboo as a variety.
Size: Can grow to 40 feet with culms almost 2 inches in diameter. Typical size in the Southeast is 15-20 feet with 1-inch diameter culms. One of the least aggressive running bamboos.
Cold hardiness: Hardy to about 0 degrees F.
Culture: Plant in light to medium shade in a well-drained soil. Will grow in full sun with irrigation and good care. Grows slowly in deep shade.
Landscape use: Probably the best Phyllostachys for residential landscapes and refined situations. Makes a (relatively) easily controlled, translucent hedge or background.
Other notes: Fairly common throughout the Southeast, though usually somewhat expensive. Some clones of Black Bamboo have better black color than others. The "Hale" clone is highly valued for the consistency of its coloration, its smaller size, and its cold hardiness.
Varieties and related species: There are about 40 Phyllostachys bamboos native to China, and most of these are commercially available in the United States. The majority of the Phyllostachys species resemble Golden Bamboo in appearance.
Bamboo in the landscape:
Bamboos vary in size, shape and color! As evergreen plants, they can be used in a variety of situations: as low-growing groundcovers, in erosion control, as medium to very tall hedges or screens, as windbreaks, as large groves, or as specimen plants. They also make beautiful container plants!
Come check the Bamboo section at Berkeley Hort and for a better idea of what mature plants look like see the book Bamboos by C. Recht and M.F. Wetterwald, available in the store. Also, check out the clumping and gracefully arching "Mexican Weeping Bamboo" in our tropical-plants courtyard! Celebrate bamboo! And remember: "Bamboo bends, but does not break!"
Growing bamboo:
You can plant bamboo year-round in the Bay Area, but as with other plants Fall is the ideal planting time, with days still warm and rains to help them become well established. Dig a 2 by 2-foot hole, place the plant, and backfill with well-draining soil. Bamboo likes regular watering and fertilizing. It is best to thin out 4 to 5-year-old culms and trim the lower leaves to expose the canes.
Caring for bamboo:
Bamboo plants demand little care. Firstly, because of their vigorous growth, just as a lawn grass, to which they are related, they do benefit from regular watering and regular fertilizer applications. A fertilizer higher in Nitrogen is usually indicated and frequently lawn fertilizers are used (e.g. 16-6-8). Once the plant has achieved its mature size in about ten years, however, it will require much less fertilizer and watering, with several species being indeed drought tolerant. Mulching around the plant is also very beneficial. Compost, manure, or finely ground fir bark are all good choices (if you use manure, fertilizer applications are not necessary for that season).
Secondly, in order to maintain a healthy and beautiful bamboo plant, bamboos do ask for an often-neglected practice: pruning. In order to understand why and how they should be pruned, let's first understand:
How bamboo grows: Bamboo plants grow by producing new canes every year. In general, temperate (mostly running) bamboos, send up new canes in the spring, while tropical, clumping bamboos produce new canes later in the summer. The canes grow "telescopically", expanding vertically many feet up in just a month or two. After that each cane will start branching and leafing out. Similarly to asparagus shoots, each cane grows everything it has to grow and then stops. In the following years, each cane will only continue to branch and leaf out and color up (e.g. in Phyllostachys nigra, the Black Bamboo, canes turn from an initial green to their characteristic shiny black). As the plants develop and grow bigger, they are able to produce new, larger (taller and thicker) canes each year. And each individual cane will age and finally die in a period of several years.
Pruning off canes: Therefore, in a garden setting, canes that start looking old (with dried up leaves and discolored canes), at about 5 years of age, should be completely removed. As part of the annual maintenance, usually performed in early Spring, older canes are cut off at soil level. This provides room for new canes and, as is traditionally done in Asia, by careful thinning of the bamboo plant, the full beauty of each individual cane is revealed.
Mowing ground cover bamboos: The low-growing bamboos in the genus Pleiobastus, which form a spreading, dense ground cover, should be cut back to the ground every year, or at least every other year, just before the main Spring growth. This will produce a full set of new leaves. You can use a lawn mower, or strong hand shears, or a scythe to do it.
Labels:
Bamboo,
Partial shade,
Perennial veggie,
Resources,
Windbreak
Pokeweed - yikes!
Also called Poke “salad”
Aspects: Clumping herb, edible shoots, sun to part shade, moist well drained soil
Pokeweed is one of the most popular native wild edibles in the US. Has a long tradition of use as a vegetable, though the roots, fruits, seeds, and mature stems and leaves are poisonous. Sufficient quantities can cause diarrhea, vomiting, abdominal spasms, convulsions, and even death.
To eat boiled young shoots in several changes of water to remove the toxins; eat only the young shoots when about 6-8 inches tall; don’t eat any of the pink portions; put shoots in water and bring to a boil, pour off the water, refill and boil again, then simmer for 5 minutes, should be ready to eat. Some recommend boiling 3 times
Cooking is a hassle but the flavor is rewarding; rich and hearty, with a flavor like nutty blend of spinach and asparagus.
Can grow 4-8 ft tall; fall it has dark purple berries; wild and weedy and easy to cultivate; germinates easily from seed; can be divided with a sharp shovel; should grow in most soils though it prefers rich, moist conditions.
Birds will spread the seed all over the place; Pokeweed can carry viruses that also attack plants in the broadly defined Lily family (including asparagus and onion) and nightshades (like potato, tomato, and eggplant).
Aspects: Clumping herb, edible shoots, sun to part shade, moist well drained soil
Pokeweed is one of the most popular native wild edibles in the US. Has a long tradition of use as a vegetable, though the roots, fruits, seeds, and mature stems and leaves are poisonous. Sufficient quantities can cause diarrhea, vomiting, abdominal spasms, convulsions, and even death.
To eat boiled young shoots in several changes of water to remove the toxins; eat only the young shoots when about 6-8 inches tall; don’t eat any of the pink portions; put shoots in water and bring to a boil, pour off the water, refill and boil again, then simmer for 5 minutes, should be ready to eat. Some recommend boiling 3 times
Cooking is a hassle but the flavor is rewarding; rich and hearty, with a flavor like nutty blend of spinach and asparagus.
Can grow 4-8 ft tall; fall it has dark purple berries; wild and weedy and easy to cultivate; germinates easily from seed; can be divided with a sharp shovel; should grow in most soils though it prefers rich, moist conditions.
Birds will spread the seed all over the place; Pokeweed can carry viruses that also attack plants in the broadly defined Lily family (including asparagus and onion) and nightshades (like potato, tomato, and eggplant).
Daylily
Also called Jin zhen cai.
Aspects: Running herbs, edible flowers and flower buds, edible tubers, sun to part shade, moist well drained soil
Edible varieties are H. fulva and the slightly smaller H. lilio-asphodelus.
Thrive on neglect; produce large numbers of flowers and buds every day over a month or more
Flowers and flower buds are main source of food, used like green beans, with a crisp texture and the unique flavor shared by all parts of the daylily.
Buds can be dried for storage by stringing them up with a needle and thread in a dark, dry place. After a week to 10 days pack them in airtight containers. Dried buds are known as golden needles and are used in many Chinese dishes.
Flowers are used in salads, as garnishes, or battered and fried.
In the spring the young leaves can be cooked and taste something like creamed onion, but don’t eat too much because over consumption could be mildly toxic.
Tubers are also edible but are not great; very strong flavor and cause digestive upset and flatulence.
Nematodes can be a problem.
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Lily family - asparagus
Aspects: Clumping herb, edible shoots, full sun, moist well-drained soil
Plants are subject to problems from pests, weed, and diseases;
Pests include asparagus beetle and spotted asparagus beetles, asparagus aphid; row covers and rotenone (what’s this?) can prevent beetle damage; see this link for more pest info
Diseases include rotting and wilting from Fusarium, asparagus rust and needle blight; plant resistant varieties and remove all foliage in the fall after it dies back.
Keep heavily mulched to control weeds
Mature plantings yield for 10 to 15 years or longer, and each year’s harvest can last about tow months.
Modern asparagus varieties are male hybrids, which live longer, yield better, and do not produce seeds.
Mature asparagus plants have feathery foliage; female plants produce small hard red berries.
Extremely hardy; requires an annual rest period either from cold or drought; provide rich well-drained soil, and annual applications of compost or well rotted manure; ideally soil should be at pH 7; keep well watered all season long, including after shoot season is over.
Propagation: Most gardeners buy crowns but asparagus can be grown from seed but will naturally produce some female plants.
Plants should not be placed too close together, at least 8-14 inches apart within rows, and rows 3-5 feet apart; overcrowding causes lower yields and thinner spears.
Harvest and storage: Cut or snap spears off at ground level; does not store well and is at its best when brought right from the garden to the kitchen.
Plants are subject to problems from pests, weed, and diseases;
Pests include asparagus beetle and spotted asparagus beetles, asparagus aphid; row covers and rotenone (what’s this?) can prevent beetle damage; see this link for more pest info
Diseases include rotting and wilting from Fusarium, asparagus rust and needle blight; plant resistant varieties and remove all foliage in the fall after it dies back.
Keep heavily mulched to control weeds
Mature plantings yield for 10 to 15 years or longer, and each year’s harvest can last about tow months.
Modern asparagus varieties are male hybrids, which live longer, yield better, and do not produce seeds.
Mature asparagus plants have feathery foliage; female plants produce small hard red berries.
Extremely hardy; requires an annual rest period either from cold or drought; provide rich well-drained soil, and annual applications of compost or well rotted manure; ideally soil should be at pH 7; keep well watered all season long, including after shoot season is over.
Propagation: Most gardeners buy crowns but asparagus can be grown from seed but will naturally produce some female plants.
Plants should not be placed too close together, at least 8-14 inches apart within rows, and rows 3-5 feet apart; overcrowding causes lower yields and thinner spears.
Harvest and storage: Cut or snap spears off at ground level; does not store well and is at its best when brought right from the garden to the kitchen.
Sunday, January 27, 2008
Shelterbelters
Maximilian sunflowers, Jerusalem artichokes, bamboo, basketry willows, wildlife shrubs, or berry bushes
Spike plants
These plants are used to break through compacted or clayey soil and restore tilth and fluffiness.
Taproot type: daikon, chicory, comfrey, artichoke, dandelion
Fibrous root systems: mustard, rapeseed, alfalfa
Taproot type: daikon, chicory, comfrey, artichoke, dandelion
Fibrous root systems: mustard, rapeseed, alfalfa
Insectary plants
Almost any pollen or nectar-producing flower.
Yarrow, buckwheat, lavender, golden marguerite, bee balm, many clovers, nearly all celery or carrot varieties, fennel, Queen Anne’s lace, dill, coriander, onion or lily family, sunflower or composite family, and especially the mint family.
Yarrow, buckwheat, lavender, golden marguerite, bee balm, many clovers, nearly all celery or carrot varieties, fennel, Queen Anne’s lace, dill, coriander, onion or lily family, sunflower or composite family, and especially the mint family.
Soil fumigants and pest repellents
Nasturtium, false indigo, elderberry, and certain marigolds.
Marigolds: Tagetes minuta repels soil nematodes; T. patula and T. erecta are less effective.
Toby Hemenway recommends planting insect repelling plants in limited quantities because they are not well researched.
Some anecdotal evidence that plantings of sage or scorzona (black salsify)repels carrot fly.
Alliums and nasturtium repel aphids
Tansy repels ants
Basil repels flies and mosquitoes
Marigolds repel Mexican bean beetle
Repel white cabbage butterfly with hyssop, peppermint, rosemary, sage, thyme, and southernwood
Calamus repels mosquitoes
Castor beans to repel moles and mosquitoes (poisonous to humans)
Marigolds: Tagetes minuta repels soil nematodes; T. patula and T. erecta are less effective.
Toby Hemenway recommends planting insect repelling plants in limited quantities because they are not well researched.
Some anecdotal evidence that plantings of sage or scorzona (black salsify)repels carrot fly.
Alliums and nasturtium repel aphids
Tansy repels ants
Basil repels flies and mosquitoes
Marigolds repel Mexican bean beetle
Repel white cabbage butterfly with hyssop, peppermint, rosemary, sage, thyme, and southernwood
Calamus repels mosquitoes
Castor beans to repel moles and mosquitoes (poisonous to humans)
Mulch makers
Anything that falls to the ground but these plants in particular: artichokes, cardoon, rhubarb, comfrey, Jerusalem artichoke, ferns, reeds, and nasturtium.
Green manure cover crops for mulching in place: clovers (especially sweet clover which grows 5 ft tall), vetches, many grasses and grains, mustard, crotolaria, buckwheat.
Living mulches (soft undercover of greenery that protects soil): dwarf yarrow, thrift, Ajuga, wild strawberry, stonecrop, periwinkle, white clover.
Green manure cover crops for mulching in place: clovers (especially sweet clover which grows 5 ft tall), vetches, many grasses and grains, mustard, crotolaria, buckwheat.
Living mulches (soft undercover of greenery that protects soil): dwarf yarrow, thrift, Ajuga, wild strawberry, stonecrop, periwinkle, white clover.
Saturday, January 26, 2008
Seed ball instructions and my 2008 seedballs
OUR 2008 SEEDBALLS.
Got clay from outside our fence, so far it works great. SEED SAVE - 10 packets made less than 1/8 cup of seed. Made 18 seedballs.
Seed ball instructions
Plan to buy:
Butterfly weed
Cupplant
Downy sunflower (didn't put these in???)
Lupine
New England aster
Purple coneflower
Red milkweed
Ostrich Fiddlehead Fern
Also called: Matteuccia pennsylvanica; Onoclea sturthiopteris; Fiddlehead fern
Aspects: Running herb; edible shoots; part to full shade; moist to wet soil
Ready for harvest in early spring; short edible harvest season but serve the rest of the year as magnificent ornamentals; ferns grow to 6 feet tall and spread by rhizomes to form large colonies
Prefer part or full shade although they can survive in full sun if they are in consistently moist soil; prefer acid soil but will survive in a wide range of garden soils.
Propagate through division or spores
Pick fiddleheads when they are still tightly curled in the crown of the fern in spring. Okay to harvest when they are a few inches tall but they rapidly become tough an unpalatable.
Fiddleheads must be cooked for at least 10 minutes; eat them steamed, boiled, pickled, or served in omelets; crisp texture with a wild nutty flavor; can be canned or frozen
Ostrich fern are considered the safest and most palatable fern for eating; avoid Bracken fern.
Aspects: Running herb; edible shoots; part to full shade; moist to wet soil
Ready for harvest in early spring; short edible harvest season but serve the rest of the year as magnificent ornamentals; ferns grow to 6 feet tall and spread by rhizomes to form large colonies
Prefer part or full shade although they can survive in full sun if they are in consistently moist soil; prefer acid soil but will survive in a wide range of garden soils.
Propagate through division or spores
Pick fiddleheads when they are still tightly curled in the crown of the fern in spring. Okay to harvest when they are a few inches tall but they rapidly become tough an unpalatable.
Fiddleheads must be cooked for at least 10 minutes; eat them steamed, boiled, pickled, or served in omelets; crisp texture with a wild nutty flavor; can be canned or frozen
Ostrich fern are considered the safest and most palatable fern for eating; avoid Bracken fern.
Friday, January 25, 2008
Nutrient fixers and accumulators
These plants bring up nutrients (potassium, magnesium, calcium, sulfur, and others)from deep in the soil.
Daikon radish, chicory, yarrow, chamomile, fennel, lamb's quarters,
See Designing and Maintaining Your Edible Landscape, by Robert Kourik for a comprehensive list. Get through ILL because not owned by WCL nor available through Amazon.
Alfalfa - roots go down 20-30 feet, sometimes 100 feet, but not in soils with rock layer or hardpan. Supplies phosphorous, potassium, magnesium and trace minerals
Dandelion - presence indicates the subsoil is easy to penetrate and that soil may be suitable for alfalfa
Amaranth - commonly found where ever the soil has been disturbed; one of the best plants for pumping nutrients from the subsoil; especially good to grow with potatoes but can take over; valuable food source
Borage - excellent provider of potassium, calcium and other natural minerals
Daikon radish, chicory, yarrow, chamomile, fennel, lamb's quarters,
See Designing and Maintaining Your Edible Landscape, by Robert Kourik for a comprehensive list. Get through ILL because not owned by WCL nor available through Amazon.
Alfalfa - roots go down 20-30 feet, sometimes 100 feet, but not in soils with rock layer or hardpan. Supplies phosphorous, potassium, magnesium and trace minerals
Dandelion - presence indicates the subsoil is easy to penetrate and that soil may be suitable for alfalfa
Amaranth - commonly found where ever the soil has been disturbed; one of the best plants for pumping nutrients from the subsoil; especially good to grow with potatoes but can take over; valuable food source
Borage - excellent provider of potassium, calcium and other natural minerals
Apple trees
Apple trees benefit from mulberry companionship
Need two different types of apples for successful pollination.
Triploids will not pollinate other varieties or themselves, however they are pollinated by other apple varieties.
Need two different types of apples for successful pollination.
Triploids will not pollinate other varieties or themselves, however they are pollinated by other apple varieties.
Nitrogen fixers
Trees – black locust, acacia, red or black alder, golden-chain tree, silk tree, mountain mahogany
Shrubs – Russian olive, wax myrtle, Siberian pea shrub, buffaloberry, scotch broom (too fragrant for our taste, ceanothus, goumi, Autumn olive
Ground covers - clover
Legumes
*Alfalfa (250 pounds per year)
Shrubs – Russian olive, wax myrtle, Siberian pea shrub, buffaloberry, scotch broom (too fragrant for our taste, ceanothus, goumi, Autumn olive
Ground covers - clover
Legumes
*Alfalfa (250 pounds per year)
Good King Henry
Also called Fat Hen, Lincolnshire asparagus
Aspects: Clumping herb, edible shoots, edible greens, edible flower-buds, sun to part shade, moist, well-drained soil
Primarily grown for its edible asparagus-like shoots, bit also has edible leaves, flower-buds, and seeds.
Reliable, low-maintenance spinach relative; seeds are a grain crop
If grown in a rich soil with plenty of compost or rotted manure it can produce shoots 20 days before asparagus and continue to do so until several weeks after the asparagus harvest is over (3 month harvest season!)
Leaves are eaten as a fine cooking green, although their flavor is a bit bitter and may be best mixed with other greens; unpleasant if uncooked due to oxalic acid
An established plant resembles a large spinach plant; also appears similar to lamb’s quarter; leaves up in early spring and persist late into the fall
Not at all picky but not particularly drought tolerant; probably prefers partial shade in areas with hot summers.
Few pests or disease problems
Propagate through seed, division; mulch under plants to control seed propagation; seedlings will seem small and weak the first year but take off the second year; plant 18-24 inches apart
Do not harvest leaves the first year while the plants get established; plants need replacing after about five years (seed division); shoots are sometimes blanched to make them sweet; shoots are harvested just like asparagus when they are about 8 inches tall; uncooked
Unlike other greens their flavor is not diminished by flowering; in fact the leaves are often larger and more succulent after flowering; tender young flower clusters are eaten somewhat like broccoli; seed is cooked as a grain but should be soaked overnight to remove its mildly toxic saponins (soapy compound also present in quinoa)
For greater genetic variability and seedlings with interesting and desirable traits try ordering seed from European companies as United States companies carry seed from a small number of selections
Watercress
Also called Rorippa nasturtium-aquatica
Aspects: Running herb, edible leaves, sun to part shade, aquatic to moist soil
Can be grown in almost any climate; grows best in shallow, slowly running fresh water free from contamination; will draw the needed nutrients from the water; consider carefully before planting in a natural water source because it naturalizes quickly and can pass on illnesses when grown in contaminated water
Will grow in a backyard water garden if transplanted to an unheated greenhouse during over winter; needs good fertile soil
Will also grow as a houseplant or outdoor container plant with the pots placed in saucers of water that are kept full so the soil remains wet; needs good fertile soil
Will also grow in ordinary soil if it is kept moist enough
Eaten fresh or cooked
Flea beetle and/or mosaic virus can be a problem; watercress itself can become a weed
Watercress has a poor shelf life and is best used fresh; plants harvested in cooler climates have a much milder flavor; once plants flower the flavor becomes exceedingly pungent.
Aspects: Running herb, edible leaves, sun to part shade, aquatic to moist soil
Can be grown in almost any climate; grows best in shallow, slowly running fresh water free from contamination; will draw the needed nutrients from the water; consider carefully before planting in a natural water source because it naturalizes quickly and can pass on illnesses when grown in contaminated water
Will grow in a backyard water garden if transplanted to an unheated greenhouse during over winter; needs good fertile soil
Will also grow as a houseplant or outdoor container plant with the pots placed in saucers of water that are kept full so the soil remains wet; needs good fertile soil
Will also grow in ordinary soil if it is kept moist enough
Eaten fresh or cooked
Flea beetle and/or mosaic virus can be a problem; watercress itself can become a weed
Watercress has a poor shelf life and is best used fresh; plants harvested in cooler climates have a much milder flavor; once plants flower the flavor becomes exceedingly pungent.
Monday, January 21, 2008
Turkish Rocket
Also called Warty cabbage
Aspects: Clumping herb, edible leaves, sun to part shade, moist well-drained soil.
Low maintenance perennial; resembles an enormous woolly dandelion until it flowers, when it becomes clear that it is a brassica.
Young leaves are edible with a pungent, hot flavor like mustard greens; early leaves can be eaten raw, later leaves are good as mixed cooked greens; flower buds look and taste like broccoli raab.
Established Turkish rocket plants produce a truly enormous number of these mini-broccolis.
Keep removing leaves (when they are 10 inches long) and the flower stalks, and the plant may produce all season long.
Somewhat drought tolerant; grows in full sun or light shade; plants spread to several feet across; if you dig them up and leave a bit of root in the ground it will come right back so be careful where you plant it.
Sometimes mistakenly sold by seed companies as arugula, which has tiny seeds. Turkish rocket seeds are large and bumpy, the size of a whole peppercorn.
Sunday, January 20, 2008
Sunchoke
Aspects: Running herb, edible tubers, full sun, moist well-drained soil
Also called Jerusalem artichoke, sunroot
Plants grow 6-12 ft tall; sunflower-like flowers in the late fall.
Dwarf Sunray variety is better suited to small gardens; grows to 6 ft tall; tubers grow close to the base of the stems for easier harvesting; flowers much earlier; less prone to blowing over in strong wind.
Tubers benefit from a bit of frost which sweetens them, best after first hard frost; harvest last years crop in the spring for a super sweet treat.
Plants are very productive, producing as much as four times the yield of potatoes; tubers are crispy and sweet; can be smooth, or knobby and harder to clean some as large as medium-sized potatoes.
Tasty raw, but become sweeter when baked. Can be used like other root veggies but get mushy when fried.
Can be persistent and aggressive in the garden and will spread to form large colonies if not harvested regularly; once planted they are difficult to get rid of; easier to remove in midsummer when the tubers are small; thin and harvest all or most tubers every year to keep plants producing a good crop.
Full sun to light shade.
Tall dense growth makes them a poor companion for most vegetables.
Tubers store best in the ground; store in the fridge for a few days; leave the dirt on them until right before cooking.
Aster family - chicory and dandelion
Chicory is sometimes sold as Italian Dandelion
Dandelion or French Dandelion
Aspects: Clumping herbs, edible greens, full sun, moist-well-drained soil
Leaves have rich, nutty, slightly bitter flavor; highly nutritious; tasty cooked or in salads; d to make coffee-like beverage roots
Both grow in virtually any soil but flavor will improve with the quality of the soil; full sun or light shade
Deep taproots accumulate minerals from the subsoil; as their leaves decompose the enrich the soil from the surrounding plants
Harvest leaves before the plant flowers; cut back stalks to prolong the harvest season
Chicory can be an annual, a biennial, or a perennial; related to the biennial cultivated edible C. endive, which includes radicchio and endive
Perennial varieties:
Cerolio (with tight dark rosettes)
Dentarella or Italian Dandelion (with green leaves resembling a large dandelion)
Grumolo (small with green leaves)
Italo Rossico or Red Rib Dandelion (potentially long-lived, resembling a dandelion with deep red mid-ribs)
Puntarella (bred for its thick, succulent, contorted stems)
Rosssa di Treviso (long leaves turn red with cold weather)
Rossa di Verona (similar to Rossa di Treviso with smaller leaves)
Spadona (long rounded leaves like elongated spinach)
Danedelion, unlike chicory, is reliably perennial and low maintenance.
Perennial Vegetables author believes both species have improved flavor if leaves are blanched (covered with mulch) first; flowers are sometimes battered and used to make fritters.
Lovage
Aspects: Clumping herb; edible greens and stalks; sun to part shade; moist, well-drained soil
Lovage is essentially gigantic perennial celery.
Young leave and stems have strongly aromatic flavor that is usually too strong to eat raw but is great in soups (In the early spring use young shoots to make lovage-sorrel soup); late growth is too strong to eat; seed are used as seasoning; roots are also edible.
Lovage is best used fresh, but you can freeze the leaves and stems. Blanch a handful of leaves in boiling water VERY quickly then quickly throw into a bowl of ice water for a couple of minutes. Drain, place in plastic freezer bags and freeze. The frozen Lovage can be minced and used in cooked dishes.
Add a teaspoon of fresh minced Lovage to your chicken soup during the last 15 or 20 minutes of cooking. You can also add it to hot or chilled vegetable, meat, potato or tomato soups. Add one to two tablespoons of minced fresh Lovage to your meatloaf recipes. Harvest Lovage seeds to use whole or ground in cakes, meats, biscuits, breads, sauces, cheeses, salad dressings, or pickles. Add fresh leavest to your favorite potato salad or coleslaw too.
Among the first plants to emerge in early spring. Plants can grow to 6ft tall or more. After flowering the stalks often fall down crushing nearby plants. Cutting back when plant is setting seed will prevent this.
Worth growing because it attracts beneficial insects; grows in full sun or part shade; grows in ordinary garden soils
Propagate from division of fully dormant plants.
Walking onion
Walking Onion, Egyptian Onion, Topset Onion
Walking onions are prolific and easy to grow; instead of flowering they produce small bulbs at the top of the stalks. When they mature the stalks fall over planting new bulbs for the following year.
Sprouting bulbs in spring make fine scallions and are produced in abundance. Topsets can be eaten but are difficult to peel because they’re small; however bulbils can be used without peeling.
Hardy in zones 4-10 and evergreen in many climates. One of the earliest and latest sources of edible greens in cold-climate gardens. Prolific so don’t hold back on the harvesting.
Walking onions are prolific and easy to grow; instead of flowering they produce small bulbs at the top of the stalks. When they mature the stalks fall over planting new bulbs for the following year.
Sprouting bulbs in spring make fine scallions and are produced in abundance. Topsets can be eaten but are difficult to peel because they’re small; however bulbils can be used without peeling.
Hardy in zones 4-10 and evergreen in many climates. One of the earliest and latest sources of edible greens in cold-climate gardens. Prolific so don’t hold back on the harvesting.
Ramps
Aspects: Colony-forming herbe, edible greens, part to full shade, moist to wet soil
Also known as wild leeks; resembles lily-of-the-valley with broad leaves
Shade-loving; emerge early-spring; in the wild ramps favor deciduous forests so plant in a shady deciduous location
Herbacious perennials 6-12 inches high that only leaf out for a short period of time in the spring. They grow in small clumps and spread over many years by dropping seed to form huge colonies; can be transplanted when in full leaf as long as you have moist soil with good organic matter in the right location
Propagate through division.
Eat the leaves and the bulbs. Leaves are tender, with a rich pungent flavor; cooked they are milder and more delicate. Bulb flavor is somewhere between garlic and onion.
Harvest and storage – Many people dig up the whole plants, leaving just a few from each clump. Shelf life is much greater when the plants are dug whole.
Ramp leaves can be used like leeks or scallions, although their shape and texture makes them far superior for use as a green. The bulbs are used like garlic or onions. Whole plants can be roasted or fried.
Glenn Facemire of G& N Ramp Farm in Richwood, West Virginia is an expert on growing ramps; booklets on growing available
Also known as wild leeks; resembles lily-of-the-valley with broad leaves
Shade-loving; emerge early-spring; in the wild ramps favor deciduous forests so plant in a shady deciduous location
Herbacious perennials 6-12 inches high that only leaf out for a short period of time in the spring. They grow in small clumps and spread over many years by dropping seed to form huge colonies; can be transplanted when in full leaf as long as you have moist soil with good organic matter in the right location
Propagate through division.
Eat the leaves and the bulbs. Leaves are tender, with a rich pungent flavor; cooked they are milder and more delicate. Bulb flavor is somewhere between garlic and onion.
Harvest and storage – Many people dig up the whole plants, leaving just a few from each clump. Shelf life is much greater when the plants are dug whole.
Ramp leaves can be used like leeks or scallions, although their shape and texture makes them far superior for use as a green. The bulbs are used like garlic or onions. Whole plants can be roasted or fried.
Glenn Facemire of G& N Ramp Farm in Richwood, West Virginia is an expert on growing ramps; booklets on growing available
Perennial onions
Synonyms: Shallot, potato onion, mother onion, nest onion
Aspects: Clumping herb, edible bulbs, edible greens, full sun, moist well drained soils
Potato onions are smaller than ordinary biennial onions but their flavor is excellent and their storage qualities are superior; use a combination of large and small bulbs for propagation
Plants should not be allowed to dry out as this substantially lowers yields
Aspects: Clumping herb, edible bulbs, edible greens, full sun, moist well drained soils
Potato onions are smaller than ordinary biennial onions but their flavor is excellent and their storage qualities are superior; use a combination of large and small bulbs for propagation
Plants should not be allowed to dry out as this substantially lowers yields
Nematode-killing plants
Sheet-mulch materials containing nitrogen
Below the sheet-mulch barrier (cardboard, newspaper, heavy paper bags):
Aged but seedy manure, fresh manure, legume hay (e.g. alfalfa), vegetable kitchen waste, weeds
Above the sheet-mulch barrier (cardboard, newspaper, heavy paper bags):
Aquatic weeds & algae, coffee grounds, aged seed-free manure, grass clippings, seaweed
Aged but seedy manure, fresh manure, legume hay (e.g. alfalfa), vegetable kitchen waste, weeds
Above the sheet-mulch barrier (cardboard, newspaper, heavy paper bags):
Aquatic weeds & algae, coffee grounds, aged seed-free manure, grass clippings, seaweed
Sheet-mulch materials containing carbon
Below the sheet-mulch barrier (cardboard, newspaper, heavy paper bags):
Dried leaves, dried plant stalks, grass hay, any seed-free carbon source
Above the sheet-mulch barrier (cardboard, newspaper, heavy paper bags):
Pine needles, sawdust, shredded newspaper, straw, wood chips (top mulch only)
Dried leaves, dried plant stalks, grass hay, any seed-free carbon source
Above the sheet-mulch barrier (cardboard, newspaper, heavy paper bags):
Pine needles, sawdust, shredded newspaper, straw, wood chips (top mulch only)
Perennial vegetables suited for Northern Nevada climate
Perennial Vegetables classifies Sparks as Cold Temperature Region: East, Midwest, and Mountain West.
Perennials in all parts of the cold temperature zone:
Welsh onion, ramps, garlic chives, groundnut, udo, asparagus, turkish rocket, Cusick’s camass, Leichtlin’s camass, wild hyacinth, Good King Henry, chicory, sea kale, Chinese yam, sunchoke, daylily, wood nettle, lovage, musk mallow, ostrich fern, watercress, water celery, mountain sorrel, fuki, pokeweed, Solomon’s seal, rhubarb, French sorrel, profusion sorrel, sheep sorrel, silver shield sorrel, arrowhead, scorzonera, skirret, Chinese artichoke, dandelion, linden, nettles
Perennial in warmer parts of the cold temperature zone, or perennial with protection:
Perennial sweet leek, potato onion, shallot, Walking onion, canebrake bamboo, yellow asphodel, saltbrush (try as a dieback perennial), sea beet, Tree Collards, Walking Stick Kale, tropical tree kale, Western Front perennial kale, perennial broccoli (including 9 Star), branching bush kale (including Dorbenton), wild cabbage, achira, chufa, sylvetta arugula (probably as a dieback perennial in warmer areas), wolfberry, water lotus (hardy as long as roots are below freeze line), fragrant spring tree.
Air potato – wild form can be very aggressive, cultivated form is less aggressive but still a vigorous producer. Author feels benefits (no digging harvest is good for the back and the soil) makes this a useful addition.
Perennials in all parts of the cold temperature zone:
Welsh onion, ramps, garlic chives, groundnut, udo, asparagus, turkish rocket, Cusick’s camass, Leichtlin’s camass, wild hyacinth, Good King Henry, chicory, sea kale, Chinese yam, sunchoke, daylily, wood nettle, lovage, musk mallow, ostrich fern, watercress, water celery, mountain sorrel, fuki, pokeweed, Solomon’s seal, rhubarb, French sorrel, profusion sorrel, sheep sorrel, silver shield sorrel, arrowhead, scorzonera, skirret, Chinese artichoke, dandelion, linden, nettles
Perennial in warmer parts of the cold temperature zone, or perennial with protection:
Perennial sweet leek, potato onion, shallot, Walking onion, canebrake bamboo, yellow asphodel, saltbrush (try as a dieback perennial), sea beet, Tree Collards, Walking Stick Kale, tropical tree kale, Western Front perennial kale, perennial broccoli (including 9 Star), branching bush kale (including Dorbenton), wild cabbage, achira, chufa, sylvetta arugula (probably as a dieback perennial in warmer areas), wolfberry, water lotus (hardy as long as roots are below freeze line), fragrant spring tree.
Air potato – wild form can be very aggressive, cultivated form is less aggressive but still a vigorous producer. Author feels benefits (no digging harvest is good for the back and the soil) makes this a useful addition.
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Multifunctional perennial vegetables
Note: Some plants may not be suitable for Northern Nevada
Nitrogen-fixing species – basul, cache bean, groundnut, lablab bean, lima bean, runner bean, water mimosa, winged bean
Nutrient accumulators – chicory, dandelion, sorrels, stinging nettle, watercress
Insect nectarines – arracacha, fuki, lovage, Okinawa spinach, scorzonera, skirret, sunchoke, udo, water celery, yacon
Groundcovers – Chinese artichoke, daylily, fuki, New Zealand spinach, ostrich fern, sheep sorrel, sissoo spinach, sweet potato, water celery
List from Perennial Vegetables, by Eric Toensmeier.
Nitrogen-fixing species – basul, cache bean, groundnut, lablab bean, lima bean, runner bean, water mimosa, winged bean
Nutrient accumulators – chicory, dandelion, sorrels, stinging nettle, watercress
Insect nectarines – arracacha, fuki, lovage, Okinawa spinach, scorzonera, skirret, sunchoke, udo, water celery, yacon
Groundcovers – Chinese artichoke, daylily, fuki, New Zealand spinach, ostrich fern, sheep sorrel, sissoo spinach, sweet potato, water celery
List from Perennial Vegetables, by Eric Toensmeier.
Tuesday, January 1, 2008
Permaculture plant wish list
Maximilian sunflower, black locust, jerusalem artichoke, kiwi (shade, food),